Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When you work a car its always the same.. you get alot of power, then not long after you get bored of it. Its a never ending cycle which cost sh|tloads!

Track work sounds like the best way to go because being a street driven car Im sure most of the power is used to run in a straight line but hit the track and really take the car to its limits

Yes... also if you can, get someone good to drive it at a training day like a driving instructor (many of them are utter penii though) or racing driver to jump in the car and show you what it can do... you will be amazed. Though again, choose carefully.

Obviously I'm all in favour of you taking it to the track Chris as well.

Infact I have also promised you a drive in my car - just never had the chance to take you for a spin. Maybe I can take you for a passenger lap at a track day if you like?

But for me a great example of someone going to the track is ferni. When I first met ferni he was pretty crazy on the street. But at his first track day I think he quickly learnt a) How fast his car really is. B) How much he still had to learn to drive it properly and c) How doing those speeds on the track is a hell of a lot more sensible than on the streets after he did make some mistakes when trying to drive fast.

Doesn't matter what type of thing you do - whether its a club sprint, drifting, or something like an advanced driver training - get out somewhere and safely take you car to the limit and really enjoy the power you have. I can almost garantee at the end of it you will be thinking about how to best improve your handling, grip and stopping rather than your power as well.

I have gradually lost the fun of driving my skyline, and need some ideas to get it to kik me in the arse again. Most of you know my car has 250rwkw and right now i found that.. well... boring. I think it may be the fact that im used to it and it doesnt surprise me anymore. What are some cheap ways to squeeze power into it, keeping in mind that it has stock engine internals and is running a GT-2835

Chris try driving to work and back in peak hour traffic on the freeway known as the carpark everyday damn day of the week and not being able to get over 80km/h most of the way amd see how much fun it is, and when you get around 280 km/tank and have to fill up atleast twice a week!!!!!!

Thats y i am getting another car as a daily driver soon coz the line pisses me off driving to work!!

I have found there are not many places to use the power on the street unless you go out late at night to have a play!!!!

I can almost garantee at the end of it you will be thinking about how to best improve your handling, grip and stopping rather than your power as well.

That is true, before my first track day I was looking for more rwkw, after a day at the track the direction turned to spending money on the handling side of things.

Track days are the best way of finding out how much more you need to learn about driving your car.

Yet another vote for spending the cash on track time.

Nitrous Kit. 75hp shot $900 fitted, ready to go. Unlike popular belief they don’t add wear and tear when used in small shots, and in moderation. And on the up side, you only use the extra power when you hit the button, so less strain on the motor, apposed to having the extra hp there all the time with bigger turbo for example.

That will teach you to buy such a powerful car at age 17/18. Lol!! You should have got a shit box to putt around in so you apprieciate the natural progression of owning betting cars.

I reckon if I had your car back when i got my licence I would be currently living at Fawkner Cemetry, not becasue I'm reckless but because it takes a few years to gradually learn how to drive properly and react to situations that happen on the road even if your the safest guy on earch.

If people say your 'crazy' its probably because you do stupid shit to make them think that and I'm sure having 250rwkw doesn't make the situation any better

If the turbo in ur car is infact a GT2835 (looked smaller) then just turn the boost up

for obvious reasons im sure even a blind and mute spastic can understand.... dont do this with ur stock internals and stock ECU... its already running plenty.

have it tuned with a PFC, get an oil cooler and go for a blat on the track :D dont want anything going bang so mak sure its tuned properly first

for obvious reasons im sure even a blind and mute spastic can understand.... dont do this with ur stock internals and stock ECU... its already running plenty.

have it tuned with a PFC, get an oil cooler and go for a blat on the track :D dont want anything going bang so mak sure its tuned properly first

doubt he has a stock ecu and 250rwkw.

Obiviously added boost means retune and he still has another 50rwkw he can go before she goes bang

doubt he has a stock ecu and 250rwkw.

Obiviously added boost means retune and he still has another 50rwkw he can go before she goes bang

I have a stock ECU with a chip, and yes it is a 2835 as it was checked by benny from Chasers, ice performance had no clue (no surprise there).

im already running 17 pounds, dont think i want to push it any more. the reason my car is only running 250 kw is that it is resticted by the computer and the injectors so it cant even be tuned for that turbo well.

So yeah Ni i think ill just get the powerfc and oil cooler which will give me more power :D (when i can afford it lol) and then hit the trackkk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...