Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am planning to purchase a new head unit to replace my stock cd player in my R32 nissan skyline gts-t. I was just wondering how hard is it to install a aftermarket head unit on the r32? I have installed head units before on other cars but since this is an import i guess it may be a bit harder. Do you suggest i get it done professionally?

If anyone has done it before can they help me out or maybe even take me throught the step by step process. Also are there any special equipment I need to purchase prior to installation? Ive read on the R33 installation it requires an adaptor, what is this for and why?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65864-stereo-installation-in-an-r32/
Share on other sites

installation in my R32 was straight forward just like any other car

only difference was the antena cable it has two pins rather then the usual single pin

you can get adapters for em but in not sure where

ok thanks for that, i feel a bit more confident now installing it myself rather than going to a professional and gettin ripped off.

about the adaptors, this would be the first time for me to deal with these thingys. Do they just plug in together from unit to cables and are they necessary? sorry for asking 2 many q's its just that once i begin installing i dont want 2 wreck anything or find out i need something else.

cheers

The power is on a seperate plug with three wires, using a currenty tester you will work out which is acessory and which is power, the third, and left over wire is not earth, and if used so, head unit will work but fuse for rear tail lights and dash lights will blow (yes i found this out the hard way).

Moral:

Best to run a seperate earth wire.

To get it out is relatively easy, just pull the dash apard, mainly the surround of the stereo area and the two stero units are conected to each other on the same brackt and come out as a double din item. Very straight forward and plain easy to work out once you start pulling it all apart. MUCH!! easier than a R33.........but they get an easyier amplifier install.

  • Like 1

Hi dude, I just installed a head unit into my R32 yesterday. Assuming you know how to take the dash apart, you need:

Antenna Adaptor lead "Nissan Double Diversity" - $12.99 fm Autobahn

wire stripper/pliers

either:

screw connector (its a little white box with screw in terminals) - $3.99 fm Autobahn (though about 80c fm Jaycar) and a small screwdriver

OR

soldering iron

I used the screw connector box cause it's easier (IMO) than soldering inside the dash, and if you stuff up (ie. connect speakers around the wrong way) it's super easy to fix, and much tidier.

I recommend beg/borrow/steal a multimeter so you can confirm which wire is which, just in case your car is different to others.

If you go to an auto shop (autobahn, supercheap, coventries) you might find a Nissan->Pioneer or Nissan->Alpine plug adaptor. Prob a good idea to check first, cause you'll save having to strip wires and test things out. I wasn't so lucky and had to suss it out with a mate.

If you need more info, beam over a PM and I'll try and help with any q's you still have. Once you have all the bits, it's pretty straightforward and will take 2h(ish).

Mark

and geordie is spot on, run a separate earth. There is a decent earth when you screw into the gearshift (the oval gasket thing that holds the rubber boot down).

I made it alot easier for myself, as my whole stereo is running from an amp, all i really needed was power to run the Head unit and ran a RCA through to the amp and all the noise is taken care of from there.

Im amazed that no on has mentioned you may need to do an amp bypass. It may have already been done or it may not have a factory amp. To check, its a small round thing in the boot, screwed to the underside of the parcel tray

Good point.

I didn't think to mention it because I used a new amp for all the speakers.

I think there are 11 pins on the factory amp plug, 4 speaker inputs, 4 speaker outputs, power, earth and trigger. Use a test light or multimeter to find 12v, earth and trigger then just join the inputs to the outputs. I think speaker positive wires are solid color and negatives have a trace. Anyway it's not too hard to sort out.

GL

Do you get shitty reception if you only use 1 plug from the antenna. Cause my car came fram japan with a "fm expander" and only one of the pins goes into it. And with my new head unit (Alpine CDA-9826) i get crap reception.

I'm just halfway through transferring my old head unit into my current car..

The only problem is that I'm hardly getting any volume out of the speakers. Think they are stuffed (factory ones), or just play at low volume.... Is there any solution for this, other than new speakers? I tend to get that problem with any factory speakers and this deck until i put new ones in, and then it's all fine :D

Just cut off the aerial plug and put the new one.. seems to get reception ok. Haven't connected up the "aerial booster" wire at all - sure its required?

meh, it works i guess.. just sounds pissy..Anyhow, pretty much finished mine.

If you have a bunch of plugs in there (like mine), they'll probably be for the double DIN, amp, stacker, or whatever else was in there once upon a time.

The only one you'll need to really worry about will be the big flat one, which is like one plug seperated into two sections - one with 6 pins, the other with 4 (only 2 filled with pins).

Here is the wiring:

Blue/red - Illumination wire (12v on lights on). Most stereos this is not needed, but useful if you want to tap off for a boost gauge light or something :O

Blue (4 pin side) - 12v accessories (i think it's either that or 12v constant)

Yellow - 12v constant (or accessories, see above :D)

Brown - Front Right -ve

Black/Red (below the brown) - Front Left +ve

Blue (6 pin side) - Front Left -ve

Black/White - Front Left +ve

Black/Red (below yellow) - Antenna boost. Connect this to your antenna/amp control wire. After a bit of experimentation, this *does* in fact boost the amount of channels I could get, so a good idea connecting this up.

I'm just halfway through transferring my old head unit into my current car..  

The only problem is that I'm hardly getting any volume out of the speakers. Think they are stuffed (factory ones), or just play at low volume.... Is there any solution for this, other than new speakers? I tend to get that problem with any factory speakers and this deck until i put new ones in, and then it's all fine :D  

Just cut off the aerial plug and put the new one.. seems to get reception ok. Haven't connected up the "aerial booster" wire at all - sure its required?

Lucky the person i bought it off had already replaced the factory ones with decent aftermarket ones....just gotta get the new head unit. But at the momment ive been having probs with the factory headunit, sometimes the volume is producing only low sound even tho its up and sometimes it just cuts out.

have to say that installing my alpine head unit into my R32 was the simplest install i have ever done.

www.installdr.com

has a wire matching guide for head units in general. but does not mention the dimmer wire which i belive is next to the ignition wire on the plug (1985-1994).

only annoying bit was shaping the trim of the headunit to suit the step up on the trim around the din slots in the dash. (just used a file and a very sharp knife to cut the plastic).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...