Jump to content
SAU Community

is 100 000ks to much for r34

t8

By t8,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

t8 Newbie

t8

Posted
Posted

I'm looking at buying an r34 gtt 4 door, I have found on an importers site a 2000 gtt auto 4door with 118 000 klms on it. The price they sold it for was about 23K on the road. Would anyone be wary of buying an import with that many ks on it, or would it not be a problem. The price seems very cheap for a car of that age to, would this be because of the high ks (for its age). Does anyone know what price they normally sell for? also has anyone seen many manual 4 doors around or are they rare? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to suss it out!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65979-is-100-000ks-to-much-for-r34/
Share on other sites
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

At least they are being honest for once. 95% of the cars that come from there are wound back so just check for wear on the gearstick, handbrake and seats and you should be right.

Manual 4 doors are a fair bit rarer than autos but they do exist.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

As previously stated, don't worry about the km's, look at the car's general condition and for wear. That car has only done about 23000km per year which is the usual average in Australia, i don't beleive all people live in the city districts of Japan.

Price is damn good!

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

I bought my car with 28000 odd ks when I bought it 18 months ago.

It now has almost 70000.

Not a single problem with it.

At the end of the day, if you can get it cheap, you can spend any money saved if you need to on a big general service and replace everything.

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Mine is 5 speed.

FMIC, PowerFC, EBC (11psi flat), Front pipe, Cat, big exhaust.

I haven't got that button. I'd say it wouldn't make that much of a difference.

There is still another muffler in the middle of the exhaust that would be restrictive.

Apparently the actuators in the Nismo Sports Muffler seizes all the time, and you need to squirt it with WD40 all the time.

Would be nice also to make it open at certain RPM or boost levels. See Autospeed for something like that.

Cheers

Pete

zymotic Experienced

zymotic

Posted
Posted

Good to here about the cars longevity Dan might be keeping mine as a family car for a few years. Hoping those front doors will be more practical in car parks etc those coupe doors can be a bitch. Pity they didnt make the rear seat fold down since they moved the battery back under the bonnet.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

The sedan got the ski-port though didn't? The coupe has no access to the boot whatsoever from inside...but it does make for some good sounds from the sub as you don't get any high frequency rattles inside the cabin :P

nsm034 Proficient

nsm034

Posted
Posted

mine had the service stickers from the mechanics inside the doors and the dates and kms matched good. I think they are pretty strick with km winding now as they often knock them back from the auction yard if they think they have been fiddled with

Villeneuve Apprentice

Villeneuve

Posted
Posted
i duno

my thorts are its probly got to many km's on it for a 2000model from japan

and thers no proof to say their genuine either - it might have done more....

Personally i wouldn't buy a car over 100,000ks but some say that all the minor kinks in the car have been figured out by then.

i am also looking to buy a R34 1998 ive seen a few and mostly they have been around the 25-30,000 km range.. they have been the tiptronic models i haven't seen what the ks are for manuals..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...