Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Being stock as they come, my R32 appears to have a speed warning, which seems to chime on dead past 110km/hr. It's half broken I think so it sounds like a little bird is dying in there.

Basically how can I remove it? Where can I find it? It appears to be coming from under the dash, but bit hard to check under there whilst trying to successfully travel 110km/hr..

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66384-speed-warning-r32/
Share on other sites

I have this too! Go the stock cars. Mine was so soft that (since my aircon wasn't working) when I had the windows down I didn't hear it. I only noticed the door bell sound a few days ago: seems to kick in at almost exactly 108KM/H.

I'm leaving mine in for now as, since I am on Green Ps (stupid NSW) with a 100KM/H limit, its quite handy :P

There is a description of how to kill it in "The Sky is the Limit" book.

Remove the 100 km/hr overspeed warning - R32

Sounds horrible doesn't it?

  • Remove the plastic panels under the driver's side dashboard.
  • Drop the steering column (using the height / reach adjustment)
  • Remove the instrument cluster. The small aluminium box on a bracket behind the cluster is the noisemaker. Be very careful with the speedo cable – there is a plastic sleeve than is prone to splitting where the cable enters the back of the speedometer. It can be fixed with some heat shrink tubing or at a pinch some PVC tape.
  • Disconnect the spade terminal, and remove the dingdong box. Peace at last.

Lucien.

Weird, mine has the reverse beeper, but no speed warning, reverse is clearly audible. Is this the same beeper that alets you your headlights are on and keys are in the ignition? How do you stop the keys one, most annoying thing ever. I have NEVER forgoton my keys!!!

i think that the speed warning is suposed to come on at 105km/h (as mine and a mates does (imported R32 four doors)) mine is more dead than his so i havnt been botherd to get rid of it yet. i took my mates off it was simple and took less than 20min. im still yet to pull mine off and find out how they work, (mine quite often makes a 3 in one noise and when going downhill it doesnt make any noise).

when you take off the ding-dong box, smash it with a hammer, and post pics... (check first to make sure you pulled out the right box)

drives you insane on western/hume hwy where limit is 110km/hr. I can never be bothered taking it out, might be something to do this afternoon...

  • 3 years later...
when you take off the ding-dong box, smash it with a hammer, and post pics... (check first to make sure you pulled out the right box)

Reviving an old thread I know. I didn't smash mine with a hammer. I connected it up with the wrong polarity to the battery to see if would make a sound and it blew up. Lot's of smoke and heat haha.

  • 3 years later...

So I finally got feed up with that dam ding dong noise, removed the under dash shroud and the cluster shroud, and the cluster came right out quite easily.

The overspeed warning box is attached to the back cluster so the cluster does indeed need to be removed, you can't reach it from underneath the dash.

The noise when reversing comes from a different box altogether, witch is able to be reached from underneath. However this box also controls the automatic transmission lock, so I didn't bother with it.

Have uploaded some photos for clarity...

hcr32atnoisebox01.jpg

hcr32bodash01.jpg

hcr32bodash02.jpg

Edited by Missileman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
×
×
  • Create New...