Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

umm the gtst realistcly would do in the 16s, lets not kid our selfs

i owned a R33 GTS-T with a mad exhaust, runnin 12psi boost and it only ran into the high 15's low 16's...

a 32 is only 2.0l as well, so it would run high 16's

either your 33 was running like shat, or you cant drive.

or maybe your exhaust wasnt MAD enough.

ive seen 33's with FULLY SICK exhausts and 12 MEGA psi running 14's

I have never seen a turbo Skyline run higher than a mid 15, stock or modded.

A stock SR20 Pulsar from the early to mid '90s run 16.2. Hell, even a stock base model BA Falcon 4L auto is supposed to run 16 flat or better

.

the common misconception is a 'stock' car...

has anyone ever seen a DEAD STOCK r32 down at the drags?

...most people often call a car with just a 3" exhaust a 'stock' car

i mean stock exhaust, muffler, cat, air filter, boost, fuel... EVERYTHING

the kind of person who takes their car to the drags is the same kind of person who will modify it

i tend to think that i DEAD STOCK r32 gtst with a normal driver would run a 16...

Waz.

Well heres my 2 cents

I have an R31 Skyline with an RB30E in it and the thing was stock as they come and ran high 16's. I added extractors and exhaust and got low high 15's, low 16's. Now I don’t know where every one is getting there information that R32 Skylines stock would run 16's, but my stock R32 seems to be a hell of a lot faster then my R31 and it has been completely stock till about 2 days ago when I added a pod and all that did was make it sound good no noticeable performance. I think people should check there numbers before posting that R32's run 16's.

Just because you have an engine that’s about to die or a bigger engine then a 2.0L and your car is slow, don’t mean the majority of stock R32's are slower then you :kick:

i mean stock exhaust, muffler, cat, air filter, boost, fuel... EVERYTHING

the kind of person who takes their car to the drags is the same kind of person who will modify it

Gimme $50 and i'll go take mine out there and see how slow mine can run :rofl:.. it's auto which would make it even better. oh but its got a K&N filter so i guess it's too highly modified :)

Go on, we will pass the colleciton hat around:)

My stock R32 ran a 13.4 @ 108mph. Gtr and R33 owners call their internally std engines stock, well so am i:)

If you cant run a 15.5 in any std manual id be scratchign my head. I have been in an R32m which other then a air filter is completely std. Im betting it woudl get into the high 14s pretty easily, where is 46n2 when you need him:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...