Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people,

I am just about to become a owner of an r32 gts-t. I was wondering if u guys out ther that have had this car for a while or r about to buy one could tell me if wat i am getting is godd for the money.

93 r32 gts-t 120,000km

good black paintjob

gtr rear spoiler

cat bak exhaust 3.5 inch & Mufler

koni adjustable suspension and springs (feel good on dirt road)

17 inch whels, good lookers :P (fiew small scratches)

no name blow off valve (something that was put on in japan)

side skirts (they mite b standard ones)

new 17inch dunlop tyres

god condition inside

RWC

$12800 (without rego)

Any advice would be good, thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6687-need-advice-re-r32/
Share on other sites

ummmmm

i think it has been over here for a little while, the importer does it privately and want to get rid of his lee extravigent stock, i dont minid at all i am 18 and and loving the car. he imports car for some ppl that race tha targe tazmania- and just put a soft top auro supra in the sydney aut salon, 12 wide tyres on da back man ***'n crazy- just hope the car is good under the hood.

took it for a drive, it went sik, first time driving a turbo - i am addicted to boost hahaah. da ass was allover da joint loosing some of the 8 inch wide tread :P

thanks for the reply dood

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6687-need-advice-re-r32/#findComment-99340
Share on other sites

Joy car m8.

One thing though you said the car is not registered! Im not casting dispersions about anybody, but check the car is complianced and can be registered.

I know a guy stuck with an awesome GTiR with half the HKS catalogue thrown at it which he cant get registered as it was a road race import. It tears me up seeing this car sit in the garage.

PS are R32s that cheap now, sheesh dont i fell stupid for paying what i did two years ago.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6687-need-advice-re-r32/#findComment-99957
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...