Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is anyone else having power discrepancies? I have a 92 EVO with 400 KW's in my garage but when I take it to the races, it drops to 290 something Kw's. This makes it impossible in events with with long straights to beat cars you should be able to beat. Like the Clubman event in the Professional Circuit, when you race at Soul, a 400kw Evo should beat a Honda Type R but it has trouble keeping up in the straights. Is there event restrictions in reducing power output? Whats the point of modifying a car? Is there an easy way to make money !?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67449-grand-turismo-4-problems/
Share on other sites

It happens to everyone, what I suspect is that the garage reports the figure at the flywheel whilst the race reports the figure at the wheels.

That is probably right, i have seen it before. My Gran Turismo GTR is 541 kW according to garage and in the race replay it is 398-ish.

It is very unlikely that the race restricts your power, if the race is restricted then you wouldn't get in (eg unmodified cars, cars less than 4000 mm etc.)

there is qualifying... its called "Practice" this time tho.

and from what i can tell its not at the wheels figures..... it looks more like a bug cause most of the differences are conversions. ie. my 350z has 770kw but in the info it has 570kw which is pretty much the exact HP to KW total. ie. 770HP is 570kw

so im not sure about at fly and at wheels.

other bugs/quirks i found is when you put a racing exhaust on the cars sound shit... if i put a st8 pipe on a v8 it aint going to sound like buzz box

ie. my R34 GTR Vspec with a full racing exhaust sounds exactly the same as a rotor... its ***ing wrong!!!

no idea.. i have 3680pt in Aspec after 225days game play.. game doesnt seem any harder at least

i noticed the KW HP discrepencies also.... in the garage for eg it has 770kw.. and u change your Units to HP ..it still says 770 but 770hp ...bitof a programming boo boo i think. so that would probably explain the replay quotes from hp to kw .. coz from 770 to 570 is a fair lose in drivetrain after u spent money on clutches and shafts.

And, How hard is to drift compared to the GT3....finally workd it out last nite so it doesnt snap back on me and keeps the speed up... its really tricky.

Matt

Does anyone know Grand Turismo's official website. I would like to make a complaint regarding Conversions.....?

and what would you like then to do with your complaint, do a recall on the game, fix it and resell the game?.

i think they would get thousands of complaints, the fact is, nothing is perfect

Does anyone know how to make easy money and with what car? have completed national Licences. My 92 400 Hp EVO is'nt that quick.

Do gold licenses to get quick cars, then enter any races you want

:jump:

There was another thread here that talks about easy money.

Does anyone know how to make easy money and with what car? have completed national Licences. My 92 400 Hp EVO is'nt that quick.

Alot of the secial conditions events are all fairly easy and most of the cars you win are worth a mint. especially the Rally d' Capri in easy mode win you vehicles worth in excess of $250,000.

I'm sure your evo will be up to scratch for winning this event. Also maybe try the manufatures events, i'm sure there is an evo challenge

Guest Variable

Here's a good one I found yesterday:

Once you have enough money, buy a Mercedes that can win the

Legend of the Silver Arrow competition. Use the car that you win

to enter the Deutsche Touring Car Meisterschaft. Win this and

the prize is a Mercedes CLK-GTR Race Car which can be sold for

just under 800,000 credits! The B-spec'd time for each race in the

championship is approx. 8 minutes.

40 minutes work in BSpec = 900,000Cr. Best part is you can go back in and repeat as many times as you want and you keep winning the Merc CLK-GTR race car

the championship in doing now is the 1000 miles one... 25 laps around nurburgring and u can only use cars upto 1970. i had to sell most of my cars to get the only decent one to use and there is one other in the championship so uve gotta be on ur game most of the time. btw the car is a ac supercharged which does actually drive pretty hard. costs like 423k tho. each race is worth 150k and if u win the championship u get 300k :)

yeah, there are some :bs!: bugs... I noticed that kw one.. I reckon a rather major one.. As when you get your car done up, you like to know how it's going to go in the actual race. I always like to compensate my crappy driving with more power for instance :rofl: Instead you get some b.s. figure in the garage, and then some other different b.s. kw figure when you race. You'd think the ****ers would have looked at this point over some 4 years of development :cheers:

I'd send my game back for a recall to get that issue fixed for a start.

Also, I have another weird one. I am doing the "local A" licences. I have done all the other ones, but the full Suzuki circuit one where you have the newer Honda TypeR is right pissing me off. The required lap time (for at least bronze) is 3:00 or so, and yet I am getting around at about 2:30, and yet it's telling me I damn failed!! I do it perfectly.. nearly catch the pace car at the end.. go straight through the centre of the finish line. Do everything right AFIAK.

I've done it like 20 times now.. grr

What the hell is going on? Am I missing something?!

:cheers: looks like what I thought was the finish line, was not in fact the finish line, and that the pace car was braking for the hard right S bend - and that there is a bit more of the track to go. easy done!!

the lesson in all of this is: don't drink and drive kids!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...