Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

went to willowbank test and tune last nite

after doin a 16.1 last time completely stock AUTO

i have improved abit with the help of a FMIC

avcr controller set on 10psi

CES racing split dump .

My time i did last nite was 15.2 with a .640 reaction time .

im off saving for my next lot of things to do to make it quicker

series 1 1993

had 122.3rwkw stock

and after those little mods it did 166.9rwkw

so slowly moving up .

Would this time that i did be accurate to the dyno rating 166.9?

considerin the reaction time and all of that?

my 60 ft time was 2.356

and did 91mph.

so yeah dont know whats goin on there then.

i'll get the car looked at and do what needs to be done

next thing is injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump, cams,

trans cooler, stg 2 quick shift, highflowcat, afm then turbo.

so should be gettin a bit betta from then

well done but im sure you would like to do better. Do you only have a dump pipe with the rest of the exhaust stock?? If this is the case then that will be a big restriction.

Also did you launch the car just by planting down the foot in 'D' or did you stall it up as far as it can go then taking off right when boost comes on??

Good stuff Mate , keep pushing it :)

My auto ( when it was stock turbo & ecu ) made a best of 13.4 @ 106mph (280 rwhp)

I didn't lunch an auto until mid 300s rwhp , & even then it was only heat that killed it!

I'm trying "Redline racing ATF" now ( with a bigger cooler!) , I'll keep you informed.....

GO THE AUTO!

when i went down the quarter

i stalled it up to about 2500 and .4 or .5 boost in 1st gear

then changed to 2nd and drive

Should i try goin down in just drive ?

I have CES racing split dump 3inch

Catback 3 1/4 hyper Medallion exahust

AVCR controller set on 10psi

600X300X75 hybrid intercooler

K&n panel filter

APC did a compression test and found the 6 cylinder was 130 and the rest were 150

I havent been in another auto yet, but it feels like my gearchanges between

2 and 3rd are pretty slow or is it just normal.

pulled a alright skid though hahaha.

What other things should i be lookin at to get myself in the 13's bracket?

  • 3 weeks later...

I aslo have an auto and am about to install a Greddy Profec B-spec II. I want to set the high setting ti 11psi. Will it be OK to have it on high for the entire race. Should I launch on low then go to high. Mines all whell drive so I dont need to worry about traction. Ill have a bigger transmission cooler in by the next meet.

My time i did last nite was 15.2 with a .640 reaction time.
Your R/Times don't count. The timer starts when you leave the staging line and cross the finishing line (otherwise most rotary cars would be doing 2min 1/4's :))
my 60 ft time was 2.356 and did 91mph.
. With some more experience you will easily drop this to around a 2.1sec 60ft which should put you in the mid to high 14's with no mods at all.

bazr33:

Well done on the time. As everyone will continue to tell u....practice on your 60ft times.

Did you have your Power button on & O/D 'off'? Coz I believe that helps with the launches & gear changes.

Gear changes normally are pretty slow in the auto (approx 1 sec....zzzz). If you’re interested, currently theres a group buy for an upgraded valve body (shift kits) from M/V Automatics - highly recommended & will give the manuals a run for their money.

As HR31 mentioned, do the car a favour & get yourself a high flow cat immediately!!! & if after that, given your mods, your tuner cant tune you over 170rwkw, I'd seriously look for a new one.

For a helpful comparison guide search on the drift & drag forums (the ones by 'benm' are insightful). All the best mate :)

burkey22:

I believe with a fairly dead stock Stagea you can safetly tune upwards of 10-11psi - (dont know your mods though). If traction on your launches isnt an issue just stick it on hi.

For a helpful comparison guide search on the drift & drag forums (the ones by 'benm' are insightful). All the best mate :P
12mths, 30 runs, ~$3,700+ spent and only a 0.5sec improvement.... Yup you'll learn lots from me :)
  • 6 months later...

i did 15.1 at wsid. auto r32 gtst 3" exhaust,pod filter and 11psi.

O/D was OFF and power was on,even had my mirrors folded in.

can anyone help with launches in fairly stock auto's? at what rpm should i change to 2nd? it feels like it should change earlier,but it likes to redline.

Does manualy shifting the gears make it change quicker? or is it an illusion?

Edited by RSTME

Go the auto

stalling up in N and smaking it in to drive and i through you would leave your gear box at the start

Greddy e manage with ignision harnes + wider tyers

out of interest i have a 250 rwhp auto

how would that go i wonder

james

Sad to say it but thats still slower than a stock off the showroom floor 265 powered auto 1973 valiant sedan.

Good to see you getting some improvement though..keep it up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...