Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you want to spend $25 a litre...go Redline

If you are strapped for cash, go Fuchs, about $35 for 4 litres (GX 80 I think...have to look in the shed)

I also use Castrol Fully Synthetic diff oil...expensive but worth every penny...2 even black lines all the way

What ever you do, stay well away from Nulon oil additives, better yet, stay away from additives period.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68169-best-gearbox-oil/#findComment-1263389
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
Hi,

What's one of the better gearbox oils to use on a '96 GTS-T with around 80k on the clock. I was told Motul Gear FF by Merc. Motorsport.

Thanks.

I used Royal Purple Synthetic with some Slick 50. I was happy with it. Changed to Kendall Synthetic and Slick 50. Unbelievable inprovement. I have 156,000km's on car . I was abit worried about synchro's till the change to Kendall.Couldn't recommend Kendall highly enough

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68169-best-gearbox-oil/#findComment-1614536
Share on other sites

I've got redline oil in the gearbox and diff and they seem decent, although I haven't tried other oils to compare against (exluding the standard oil) :)

I also use Castrol Fully Synthetic diff oil...expensive but worth every penny...2 even black lines all the way

I was always under the impression that the standard diff unit (that actually controls the 1 - 1.5 ability of the diff) in a R33 diff is a sealed unit within the diff, so no matter what oil you use it won't affect it's ability to lock-up or not?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68169-best-gearbox-oil/#findComment-1614576
Share on other sites

General recommendation from Shell Aust oil techs is to run a synthetic in any high power/high load application. While you get similar viscosity ratings to mineral gear oils, their lubricating qualities are different, as are their abilities to resist degradation through shearing of the molecular structure.

It seems that most synthetics are "slipperier" and this helps the shift quality even under normal daily driver usage. FWIW, I understand that most/all heavy duty truck manufacturers recommend synthetics due to their qualities and vastly increased service intervals.

So paying the extra $$ should have payoffs. I don't personally think the brand is as important as the formulation (ie synthetic or mineral)

Regarding the oil additives comment, I've recently used a product called Molybond to see how it worked on a possibly worn synchro. The shift quality has improved out of sight, but still assessing whether a rebuild is required. Nulon's product is different, but should deliver the benefits they advertise. A mate has used it with some success. Nulon's packaging specifically states not for use with ester based synthetic oils.

cheers

Dale

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68169-best-gearbox-oil/#findComment-1614881
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...