Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i have a 89 gtr and i seem to be having a misfiring/sputter problem when cold started.

Say if i were to start the car in the morning, the car drives normally, til you hit about 2nd gear, then after about 2000rpm the exhaust sputters / back fires quite a heap til you get about 2.7K - 3K - giving it a bit seems to get it out of the rut, but once u get to the next gear it seems to do it again as soon as you get over 2000rpm. It seems to run rich and u get a little bit of smoke goin. Even when i get over this, u still get the once and a again u get the small pop / slight backfire when you change gears (which is normal yeah?).

This usually lasts about 3-5 mins at the start of the drive.

I have been reading up on the forums, and i have changed the spark plugs, they were faily normal, nothing too black or stuffed etc, but we changed them anyway for some NGK's we spaced at .8 from supa dupa cheap. After changing them it seems to still do this.

Sorry if ive given very vague information, but any help/suggestions would be appreciated muchly. Before goin down to my mechanic, i jsut thought id like to try work out what the problem is/ so maybe i could fixit (highly unlikely :)) or can better explain to my mech the problem.

Cheers.

EDIT: sorry forgot to mention, when it is sputtering/backfiring etc u can feel slight power surge, feel it kinda struggle etc, but yeh as i said you get out of it by giving it a bit more.

  • 2 months later...
I have this exact Problem, ive replaced sparkplugs, O2 sensor, taped up coil packs allthe usual stuff to no avail, infact its got even worse.

Have you solved it?

Have you tried the temperature sensor for the computer, because when the car is cold it is goin to run ritch and as it heats up it is goin to lean out a little bit, so in your case may be it is staying rich jus a tought.
Your temp sensor could be on the way out.  Mine has a habit of doing exactly the same thing so I'll be interested to see if replacing it fixes the problem.

LW.

Where abouts is the temp sensor, also what would be the correct way to test an AFM, multimeter resistance test?

cheers, also its a redtop eccs rb20det R31 motor

Also took it for a spin tonight and it misfired extremely badly around 4-5k a few times, then got better.

  • 2 years later...
  • 3 months later...

wat engine is is required for a r33 skyline??

like is there a universal type avail. from a local repco etc..???

becoz my mate temp. sensor went..he went to repco and got a universal type that fitted..

but wat about voltage requirements/temp requirements etc????

  • 8 months later...
woops....

i was takin about water temperature sensor....

bumping this thread as I've been having the same issues. Have replaced all my spark plugs and have identified a leaky injector and two coilpacks that are on the way out - however since this happens in the first 10 minutes of a drive then I believe that those two components aren't the culprit...

where is this water temperature sensor located? I've plugged the consult cable in to check the error codes and everything reports to be OK... or it could be a failing AFM.... not sure... any help appreciated...

-D

when it splutters , does tapping the accelerate quickly restore itm or it goes back to splutter?

sometimes tapping it does. it seems to splutter during acceleration with power loss but if i slam the accelerator down it doesnt disappear... its like it has no torque and doesnt accelerate when under gear but when the clutch is down it free revs as normal

and if i have a constant speed of 60kph you can feel the lack of power and the stuttering.... and when it 'decides' to change after 5-6 minutes of driving, the same accelerator position means i start to gain speed instead of just maintaining speed, and the revving of the engine starts to take a more normal tone and response is back to normal. i had these symptoms a few months ago but the duration and severity of the powerloss is increasing over time...

-D

Edit : should also add, when i put the accelerator down a bit more to try and get the engine to accelerate during this time, the exhaust sounds like its spitting exhaust gasses in pulses.... i can feel/hear the put put put sound rather than a purr if i back off the accelerator - its baffling to me - and its idling >perfectly< at the moment (ever since i replaced the sparkplugs, which didnt fix this current problem)

Edited by Dohmar

got the same sort of thing but i was travelling at a decent pace for a while and the engine was probly warmer than usual. i am thinking it may be the o2 sensor in the exhaust (dumppipe). how regularly do you need to change the o2 sensor??? totally standard r33 rb25 and if i get a power fc or vipec computer upgrade will this solve alot of the coughing splutter, rich and retard engine problems through initial tuning????? :)

thanks

  • 3 months later...

great thread, i also have the same issue. After the car running for about 10-15minutes its perfect. It's not a big issue, as i like to warm the car up well and truely anyway, but its rather more intreaging me lol!

side note: the car seems to take a very long time to get warmth into it, as apposed to my old r33

I've got the same issue - its a catalyist light up function I think.

If you log the ignition timing you'll see that it runs alot less timing than what it runs when its up to temperature. The only other thing it could be is a nuetral switch not working.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...