Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Here are some more pix.

The gudgeon pins were all siezed to the rods instead of being floating like they are supposed to be. The failure was not due to any fault in the piston but the stupidity of the engine builder.

Edited by Blitz

Sorry to hear about your woes Matt, but for legal reasons we cant allow businesses to be slandered on this forum, justified or not

post-2338-1124347217.jpg

post-2338-1124347315.jpg

Edited by Blitz

I'm no expert engine builder but I have seen gudgeon pins walk out and run on the cylinder walls . Generally the locating circlip (sp ?) has failed and no longer locates the gudgeon pin . I'm told Spiral locks never fail if fitted properly , may be worth a look .

Cheers A .

The spiral locks didn't cause the failure. The gudgeon pin as I said was not floating on the rod causing the spiral locks be to simply smashed out. I also have 2 bent rods....

the spiral lock on number six was a bee's arse from coming all the way out also.

The gudgeon pin should fit into rod with only palm force and slide along the length....these are all rock soild.

Edited by BOOSTD

Ive built quite a few engines over the years and have found that i usually have to hone at least one conrod per build as they have been to tight.The last motor i recieved for rebuilding was a freshly built sr20 with hks pistons that started making death rattle noises.I thought for sure i would find at least one tight little end but ended up being tight piston to bore clearance (1 thou).Made a mess of one piston and bore and the others looked like they were ready to grab and tear.Had a lot of wear on the skirts for a motor that had only done a few hours work.

That's a really odd failure. The small end clearance is only .0002-4" which is really just enough for the pin to push through with light thumb pressure. How long did the engine run before this happened?

It's strange for there to be enough side load on the pin to force the side of the piston out, even with the pins seized in the rod.

Any decent engine shop will warranty their work though, have you spoken to the shop yet?

The engine lasted 300km.

Side load was magnified by my rods being bent from the siezed pin.

The shop sent me packing with only an oil leak warrenty after trying to over charge me. The response was, "you didn't get a written quote so I can charge what I like" I am letting the authorities assist me in the right process for compensation.

The engine lasted 300km.

Side load was magnified by my rods being bent from the siezed pin.

The shop sent me packing with only an oil leak warrenty after trying to over charge me. The response was, "you didn't get a written quote so I can charge what I like" I am letting the authorities assist me in the right process for compensation.

Thats bullshit! Best of luck with it all Matt - hopefully the car is sorted soon.

That warranty is bs.

Ive been through consumer affairs before, and it states if you dont get what you pay for, you are entitled to a refund...

ie if you pay $200 for a watch, you expect it to last / work properly...

Ring consumer affairs, and tell em your motor lasted 300km's..you will have a case for a refund, as no one expects a motor to die after that short of a time.

Good luck :P

this picture does not do the damage justice :rolleyes::(:unsure: the bit you cant see is the depth of the score, i was quite disturbed when i saw it.... but, we will sort you out and get you back on the road ASAP!!!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pe=post&id=1538

hopefully these pistons serve me well.

the new motor should be going in about 3 weeks. i will let you know how it all goes

Just a tip, have a very close look during assembly at the clearance between the oil squirter and the side of the piston, if you move the piston from front to rear in the bore you will see they run very close. We modify the locating lug on the squirter slightly to move the squirter away from the piston.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...