Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Here are some more pix.

The gudgeon pins were all siezed to the rods instead of being floating like they are supposed to be. The failure was not due to any fault in the piston but the stupidity of the engine builder.

Edited by Blitz

Sorry to hear about your woes Matt, but for legal reasons we cant allow businesses to be slandered on this forum, justified or not

post-2338-1124347217.jpg

post-2338-1124347315.jpg

Edited by Blitz

I'm no expert engine builder but I have seen gudgeon pins walk out and run on the cylinder walls . Generally the locating circlip (sp ?) has failed and no longer locates the gudgeon pin . I'm told Spiral locks never fail if fitted properly , may be worth a look .

Cheers A .

The spiral locks didn't cause the failure. The gudgeon pin as I said was not floating on the rod causing the spiral locks be to simply smashed out. I also have 2 bent rods....

the spiral lock on number six was a bee's arse from coming all the way out also.

The gudgeon pin should fit into rod with only palm force and slide along the length....these are all rock soild.

Edited by BOOSTD

Ive built quite a few engines over the years and have found that i usually have to hone at least one conrod per build as they have been to tight.The last motor i recieved for rebuilding was a freshly built sr20 with hks pistons that started making death rattle noises.I thought for sure i would find at least one tight little end but ended up being tight piston to bore clearance (1 thou).Made a mess of one piston and bore and the others looked like they were ready to grab and tear.Had a lot of wear on the skirts for a motor that had only done a few hours work.

That's a really odd failure. The small end clearance is only .0002-4" which is really just enough for the pin to push through with light thumb pressure. How long did the engine run before this happened?

It's strange for there to be enough side load on the pin to force the side of the piston out, even with the pins seized in the rod.

Any decent engine shop will warranty their work though, have you spoken to the shop yet?

The engine lasted 300km.

Side load was magnified by my rods being bent from the siezed pin.

The shop sent me packing with only an oil leak warrenty after trying to over charge me. The response was, "you didn't get a written quote so I can charge what I like" I am letting the authorities assist me in the right process for compensation.

The engine lasted 300km.

Side load was magnified by my rods being bent from the siezed pin.

The shop sent me packing with only an oil leak warrenty after trying to over charge me. The response was, "you didn't get a written quote so I can charge what I like" I am letting the authorities assist me in the right process for compensation.

Thats bullshit! Best of luck with it all Matt - hopefully the car is sorted soon.

That warranty is bs.

Ive been through consumer affairs before, and it states if you dont get what you pay for, you are entitled to a refund...

ie if you pay $200 for a watch, you expect it to last / work properly...

Ring consumer affairs, and tell em your motor lasted 300km's..you will have a case for a refund, as no one expects a motor to die after that short of a time.

Good luck :P

this picture does not do the damage justice :rolleyes::(:unsure: the bit you cant see is the depth of the score, i was quite disturbed when i saw it.... but, we will sort you out and get you back on the road ASAP!!!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pe=post&id=1538

hopefully these pistons serve me well.

the new motor should be going in about 3 weeks. i will let you know how it all goes

Just a tip, have a very close look during assembly at the clearance between the oil squirter and the side of the piston, if you move the piston from front to rear in the bore you will see they run very close. We modify the locating lug on the squirter slightly to move the squirter away from the piston.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...