Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Here are some more pix.

The gudgeon pins were all siezed to the rods instead of being floating like they are supposed to be. The failure was not due to any fault in the piston but the stupidity of the engine builder.

Edited by Blitz

Sorry to hear about your woes Matt, but for legal reasons we cant allow businesses to be slandered on this forum, justified or not

post-2338-1124347217.jpg

post-2338-1124347315.jpg

Edited by Blitz

I'm no expert engine builder but I have seen gudgeon pins walk out and run on the cylinder walls . Generally the locating circlip (sp ?) has failed and no longer locates the gudgeon pin . I'm told Spiral locks never fail if fitted properly , may be worth a look .

Cheers A .

The spiral locks didn't cause the failure. The gudgeon pin as I said was not floating on the rod causing the spiral locks be to simply smashed out. I also have 2 bent rods....

the spiral lock on number six was a bee's arse from coming all the way out also.

The gudgeon pin should fit into rod with only palm force and slide along the length....these are all rock soild.

Edited by BOOSTD

Ive built quite a few engines over the years and have found that i usually have to hone at least one conrod per build as they have been to tight.The last motor i recieved for rebuilding was a freshly built sr20 with hks pistons that started making death rattle noises.I thought for sure i would find at least one tight little end but ended up being tight piston to bore clearance (1 thou).Made a mess of one piston and bore and the others looked like they were ready to grab and tear.Had a lot of wear on the skirts for a motor that had only done a few hours work.

That's a really odd failure. The small end clearance is only .0002-4" which is really just enough for the pin to push through with light thumb pressure. How long did the engine run before this happened?

It's strange for there to be enough side load on the pin to force the side of the piston out, even with the pins seized in the rod.

Any decent engine shop will warranty their work though, have you spoken to the shop yet?

The engine lasted 300km.

Side load was magnified by my rods being bent from the siezed pin.

The shop sent me packing with only an oil leak warrenty after trying to over charge me. The response was, "you didn't get a written quote so I can charge what I like" I am letting the authorities assist me in the right process for compensation.

The engine lasted 300km.

Side load was magnified by my rods being bent from the siezed pin.

The shop sent me packing with only an oil leak warrenty after trying to over charge me. The response was, "you didn't get a written quote so I can charge what I like" I am letting the authorities assist me in the right process for compensation.

Thats bullshit! Best of luck with it all Matt - hopefully the car is sorted soon.

That warranty is bs.

Ive been through consumer affairs before, and it states if you dont get what you pay for, you are entitled to a refund...

ie if you pay $200 for a watch, you expect it to last / work properly...

Ring consumer affairs, and tell em your motor lasted 300km's..you will have a case for a refund, as no one expects a motor to die after that short of a time.

Good luck :P

this picture does not do the damage justice :rolleyes::(:unsure: the bit you cant see is the depth of the score, i was quite disturbed when i saw it.... but, we will sort you out and get you back on the road ASAP!!!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pe=post&id=1538

hopefully these pistons serve me well.

the new motor should be going in about 3 weeks. i will let you know how it all goes

Just a tip, have a very close look during assembly at the clearance between the oil squirter and the side of the piston, if you move the piston from front to rear in the bore you will see they run very close. We modify the locating lug on the squirter slightly to move the squirter away from the piston.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...