Jump to content
SAU Community

$30 Dyno Runs! - Chip Control Mini Dyno Day 4th April


Recommended Posts

hi guys,

Chip Control - the company that is sponsoring my R32 N1 GTR race car is holding a mini dyno day on 9th April. Why so cheap? Well Scott Hendren the owner has replaced his old dyno with a brand new Dyno Dynamics Dyno and wants to give it a bit of a run.

All you have to do is go to http://www.chipcontrol.com.au register on the forums and send Scott an e-mail letting him know that you are coming.

Note : there will be no tuning just 2WD dyno runs and Chip Control is located in Sunbury. I will post more specific info like times etc early next week.

Also i've corrected the date to Sat 9th April

A note from Chip Control-

"We are looking at starting the day at about 9.00am,

Dyno runs will be in the order of arrival,

On the day Photos will be taken of your vehicle and pasted in the picture gallery for public viewing.

You will all receive a Dyno print-out of your run.

You will have a choice in how you want your power graph to display.

For example: AFR, Torque etc.

We'll see you all on the day. "

Shivam.

I have actually driven it dip shit, and if you can't see the differance between jealousy and some friendly teasing well shove it up your ass!

Great going Scoota, first post and all you bothered to do was; miss read my post and insult me. Not bad from a person that is trying to organise their first event with SAU.

I have actually driven it dip shit, and if you can't see the differance between jealousy and some friendly teasing well shove it up your ass!

Great going Scoota, first post and all you bothered to do was; miss read my post and insult me.  Not bad from a person that is trying to organise their first event with SAU.

Al, he was kidding around. Take it easy. He wasn't trying to organise anything for SAU. I thought it would be beneficial for our guys to get a $30 dyno run. Please try and organise something cheaper if you think you can.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...