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Finally finished my rebuild after about 7 weeks.

Did

40 thou over rebore

Arias forgies

match ported everything

reseated valves

regasketted everything

New big end and thrust bearings

N1 oil pump

N1 turbs

S/S dumps and fronts

Os giken twin plate

Os giken adj cam gears

Gates radiator hoses

Gates timing belt

Clear cam gear cover

Acid bath

All welsh plugs changed

Oil cooler and filter relocator

Anyway I am still in run-in time and the car seems a bit less than it used to be..I know I might be jumping the gun as I can't really get up it yet. But I have been around 5500rpm ish at 0.7 bar of boost and my 33 was always the 'lesser' car power wise....Just chasing thoughts

Could it be because we opened the piping so much it will take more exhaust gas to boost?

Is the engine just so new and tight?

I am looking forward to giving it a proper boot full but I must behave for a few more hundred k's...

The next step is injectors,pump and fc in case you were wondering why they weren't on the list.

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could be the run in oil as well, i think mineral oil is harsher on the internals at high temp, but thats what it needs to bed the engine etc.

sweet build!! i have just done the exact same rebuild!!

i found that during the run in it also was abit down, but i got it tuned on the run in oil and it pulled 250rwkw on pits's dyno in 3rd at 1.2bar. It was running rich with the lower comp ratio

after the oil change it seems to be much smoother and rev's alot easier. i can feel the power earlier, and it feels like it may come on harder??

i will have it dynoed at the next dyno day & post the results. also pits's dyno results are usually at least 10% low??

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Guest two.06l
Finally finished my rebuild after about 7 weeks.

Did

40 thou over rebore

Arias forgies

match ported everything

reseated valves

regasketted everything

New big end and thrust bearings

N1 oil pump

N1 turbs

S/S dumps and fronts

Os giken twin plate

Os giken adj cam gears

Gates radiator hoses

Gates timing belt

Clear cam gear cover

Acid bath

All welsh plugs changed

Oil cooler and filter relocator

Anyway I am still in run-in time and the car seems a bit less than it used to be..I know I might be jumping the gun as I can't really get up it yet. But I have been around 5500rpm ish at 0.7 bar of boost and my 33 was always the 'lesser' car power wise....Just chasing thoughts

Could it be because we opened the piping so much it will take more exhaust gas to boost?

Is the engine just so new and tight?

I am looking forward to giving it a proper boot full but I must behave for a few more hundred k's...

The next step is injectors,pump and fc in case you were wondering why they weren't on the list.

did you open up the exhaust ports when doing the head??

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69469-32-gtr-rebuild/#findComment-1285463
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ricknismo

I have an R32 - and have just done the SAME rebuild, I'm also still runnin in (~1500klms on the dial so far) – I have R34 N1s with hks style non-turbulent dumps and a full 3.5” exhaust + the other stuff you mention

At 8psi - I'm gettin ~180awkw I'd say (I can keep up with a std WRX and VYSS)

B4 the rebuild I had about 210awkw – but my bottom end was shot (pots 4 and 6 totally rooted), no dumps, no port and polish blah blah blah

It does not rev out as smoothly as it did b4 - but it I'm not expecting things to fully loosen up until past 5000klms (at least) and I have lost the mineral oil

I have the PFC + Adj CAMS + 550cc injectors + Apexi EBC to install in the next week or so.

I'm expecting somewhere near 280awkw @ 1bar once this kit is installed and tuned

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had a play today...found a major boost leak.

Here's a trick...I clamped a plastic cup in the rubber hoses where the air filters go, shoved an air compressor up the (or any) air line and pressurized the whole system...found a couple of leaks...Might still have a little one though.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I found the problem...Yeah.

The standard boost solenoid has a T that goes to the plenum on the same line as the actuators...This won't work with an aftermarket boost controller and stuffs around with the sensors I guess. I ran a new vacuum line dedicated to the actators and it all good now.

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