Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Joe - thanks for the link.

Gradenko - budget, not sure yet? Care to throw some figures at me? Was thinking of keeping the same head/intake/exhaust/turbo setup if I can.

Boost - I'm aware of the time factor and for that reason (and cause I'm lazy) might end up getting a workshop to do it. Rattling - nowhere near that yet, just drinking the odd bit of oil at the moment. Not a huge thing as I'm hardly driving it.

Just wanting to actually see what one goes like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1294910
Share on other sites

Gradenko - budget, not sure yet? Care to throw some figures at me? Was thinking of keeping the same head/intake/exhaust/turbo setup if I can.

$5k minimum for a basic rebuild. $7kish using forged pistons, arp bolted bottem end and standard rods shot peened. + extra for head porting, ecu, manifold, plenum, turbo, fueling, etc. But you already know that :P

Just wanting to actually see what one goes like.

Let you know in a month or so.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1294930
Share on other sites

$5k min? Hmm. A bit more than what I was thinking - not too much more, but a bit. Is that using a new block? Do you mind PMing me the price breakdown if you have it?

:P Cam

That doesn't include the price of the new block but it does include the price of a 2nd hand block (which i needed for the crank and rods).

I'll pm you details when I get home. Good luck with whatever you choose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1295216
Share on other sites

teejay - would like to see the results. Are they on this forum?

Steve - long time no chat. Hope all is well. Who/where is the combo available from?

R31 - looks like a mint car, but wouldn't be able to get enough for mine to buy it.

Whole thing is at inquiry stage at this point - hence me wanting to have a chat to some people with experience in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1296164
Share on other sites

when u come to your budget, double it and add abit more, thats how modified cars work, hahah. i know some one who just got a motor built with pistons and gtr rods, and studs, pm me if u want to know more.

Another thing, is becareful who does the work on your car. i strongly advise to use one of the 2 workshops. A) Hyperdrive B) Xspeed. they are the most suited to the job if you ask me,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1296317
Share on other sites

Has anyone in Perth built a RB25/30 or had one built for them? Is there anyone running one in an R33 at the moment who could take me out for a ride? I have suspected broken ring lands and am wanting to look at options outside of the norm.

Cam, give hyperdrive a call, i remember talking to ken and he was telling me how they were going to built this as i type of demo car when hyperdrive 1st started dont know if it happened or not

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1296324
Share on other sites

different strokes for different folks

i personally didnt think the non revving nature of a rb30 would be any fun

but i was wrong, and its become a more and more popular idea... got to be some reasoning in that.

your on boost so much earlier then any other rb combo

ive been in a gtr with twin 2530's and its not even close boost response wise

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1297141
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...