Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i talk from PERSONAL experience here

gcg hi flow running 13psi

turbo back 3" (std cat)

550cc injectors

500 hp fuel pump

fmic

hks pod in cold air box

power fc

and DAMN GOOD tuner to get it all working nicely

270.3 RWkw

so yes, it is possible and have the dyno charts to proove it.

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i talk from PERSONAL experience here

gcg hi flow running 13psi

turbo back 3" (std cat)

550cc injectors

500 hp fuel pump

fmic

hks pod in cold air box

power fc

and DAMN GOOD tuner to get it all working nicely

270.3 RWkw

so yes, it is possible

13 psi?

I will be putting a RB25 S2 highflow on my RB31.

Geting it done with a 360 deg thrust bearing so it will stand the test of time. Hope to run 8 -10 psi for daily driving and 16-18 psi for when I want to give it a bit.

I have a Sard Trigger ebc and don't need to be running insane boost levels around town or when driving to work.

Should spool up nice and quick as well. At the moment I start to make boost at 1400-1600 rpm. Full boost by 2000-2200rpm. The extra .6L makes a big difference

I'm hoping for about 240-250ish Rwkw from it. But I do have the extra support systems in place as well for this.

I think the difference in responces from workshops comes from what a hi-flowed turbo is. Anyone can take your turbo and give it back as a Hi-flow, but from what I have seen GCG are the only ones that reliably deliver the goods.

I went through this process at the start of the year, and dont regret the GCG turbo. Additional benifits include the stock look - so no real problems with the police, the price (pm me) and the ease of instalation, and response.

whats your knock readings like? im having quite a few problems

they only reason you'd be getting knocking is due to your tuner.

it wont come down too anything else as you have all the right other bits.

should only take a tuner maybe 3 shots too get it right, sometimes there is the tiniest of adjustment required. I've had min tinked twice and its fine now, only takes a few mins :)

Hmm is their a physical different in flanges or anything between the RB25 series 1 and series 2?

And are these babys ball bearing? if not does a hi-flow include that?

I could be wrong but ball bearing is better for some reason yeah??

Andddd does the GCG hi-flow include a balancing of all components?

If anyone knows....

GCG ballance and machine all components.

They have 2 options - with ball bearings (a bit more expensive) or with a bush (a bit cheaper) The ball bearing unit should spool up quicker (but dont ask me how much quicker) I just spent the bit extra so I wouldnt regret it later. (Do it once, and do it right)

I am 99.9% sure all r33s use the same T3 flange, so there is no problem with swapping them.

Most appreciated 4door_Sleeper.

Some of you were mentioning how workshops don't really have many good things to say about the standard hi-flow's.

I spoke to a workshop last week to see what they reckon... The standard hi-flow includes bigger turbine/compressor wheels, however the turbo housing stays the same.

Their point being that you'd be pushing more air into the turbo but with the standard small housing the air wouldn't be able to flow that much quicker.

They also said for the price of a hi-flow you could buy a second hand HKS something rather (forget the numbers they gave me) but that would pull an easy 260rwkw on lowish boost, however then I thought to myself you'd probably need new dump pipe and flanges and a few extras which would build up the price.

Damn its a tough decision =

Most appreciated 4door_Sleeper.

Some of you were mentioning how workshops don't really have many good things to say about the standard hi-flow's.

I spoke to a workshop last week to see what they reckon... The standard hi-flow includes bigger turbine/compressor wheels, however the turbo housing stays the same.

Their point being that you'd be pushing more air into the turbo but with the standard small housing the air wouldn't be able to flow that much quicker.

They also said for the price of a hi-flow you could buy a second hand HKS something rather (forget the numbers they gave me) but that would pull an easy 260rwkw on lowish boost, however then I thought to myself you'd probably need new dump pipe and flanges and a few extras which would build up the price.

Damn its a tough decision =

they are probably right with what they said there, but what you have to remember is that the stock rb25 turbo cant be boosted (safely) above 14psi. so isnt the point of having the steel wheels to be able to boost it higher, safely?

I've got an R34 GTT turbo sitting in my office. It's knackered, has a couple of bits missing from the exhuast wheel.

It's going to be high flowed at GCG.

Maybe I might put cams in before the turbo though.

I'd expect about 240 rwkw from and R34 at about 15-17 pounds.

SK is getting 265 with high flow and Tomei 270 cams.

That's what I'm going for.

BASS OUT

I've got an R34 GTT turbo sitting in my office.  It's knackered, has a couple of bits missing from the exhuast wheel.

It's going to be high flowed at GCG.

Maybe I might put cams in before the turbo though.

I'd expect about 240 rwkw from and R34 at about 15-17 pounds.

SK is getting 265 with high flow and Tomei 270 cams.

That's what I'm going for.

BASS OUT

I'd aim for that kind of power one day with the standard turbo.

Before getting the turbo hi-flowed I will probably get myself power FC and maybe Z32 and bigger fuel pump. Is there an advantage to having a large fuel pump inside the tank or a couple external in the boot with a surge tank, cos that looks pretty cool :headspin:

Any way I have attached a photo of the turbo which I purchased, can someone identify it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...