Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah this was me...

It was pretty bad, the 34 has seen better days. Lost control of the car at only about 50 on the round about.. Im still trying to figure out what happend.. if there was something like oil on the road or what. got mild concusion from the accident hitting my head on the b-pillar but Im all ok.

The 34 was smashed up pretty bad, both rims are bowed. the front suspension arms are all gone. the engine is good and and cooler.. the only thing that burst was the water resovior for the window washers. the rear right fender as seen better days.. The worst damange is the rear where the impact cut the fuel lines and all other lines back there alot of eletrical for some reason.. dont know why there was so much electircal wiring near the fuel lines on this car.. but they were all cut.. the fuel tank wasnt ruptured at all. and the exhaust system is fine.. with the the car on a hoist that night.. the steel undear the car is ripped.. actually torn into and I can see into parts of my boot from underneat. the estimated repair at the moment is around 15g and thats with second hand parts..

Just want to say there was a white R33 that stopped to help and a green 200sx. Thanks for stopping guys was really apprecaited..

Hey bro.. I will sms you my number..

I need help with parts mostly.. a rear halfcut is probably going to be needed.. so if you know anywhere to source parts that would be great man..

Cool cool... you at work today?

Ill try all the places I get my parts from and see how much they want for a rear cut, I doubt its going to be cheap though :) Will let you know

Thanks all for the well wishes.

Leech the car only had third party on it at that present time the switch over back to comp was not until 2 weeks.

No not at work today amaru.. The car is at Daves shop if you want to check it out.

I still dont understand what happend as I was only going at 50-60kms.. the car behind me said there were sparks coming from the rear rims.. yet both rear tires were fine.. so im at a loss.. there wasnt enough body roll for the rims to scrap..

Im not saying im the best driver in the world.. but Im used to throwing that car around alot and it felt completly different when this happned.. when it snaped back the lift side was thrown so hard it lifted the car off the ground for a moment and slammed into the railing.

the police at the scene stated that was not going very fast well withing the limit and they couldnt find the cause. I was hit with neg driver $150 fine.. not that they money makes any difference to the cost of repairing the car...

oh well live and let learn I guess..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...