Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was at a friends house round the block parked outside of booragoon primery school last night reversed parked in between two of my mates commodores and went inside.

Came out about 2:30 to see a guy running off further down the hill from where i was parked. thought that was weird! went to where i left my car and it wasn't their! somehow they managed to get it out of the parking spot get stuck on full lock and roll down the hill about four spaces and park perfectly next to another car facing inwards!! and they ripped out half the pannel under the ignition and only nicked off with 2CD's.

I worked out how they got in. make sur the passenger door is closed properly befor you lock the car!

few of my mates found the guy and followed him into wireless hill but we couldn't catch him.

So whats the best alarm/immoboliser/pitbull in the back seat i can get? and where in perth can i get it?

cheers and sorry for the long post

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70638-someone-tied-to-steal-my-car/
Share on other sites

Damn dude very lucky!

i would have to recomend the auto watch blue line series.

it has a shock sensor and ultrasonics included, two kill points ( you can kill ignition and starter or fuel pump ).

if you do happen to leave your door open slightly and you arm the alarm it will beep in a way to let you know that it has detected the door open, or your boot or your bonnet.

I have hooked mine up in conjunction with a window closure module so when you arm the alarm you can send the windows up if you leave them down.

With the r32's you will need to have a central locking motor installed into the drivers door so it can trigger the passengers door to lock.

I recomend if you dont have a turbo timer installed get one fitted while you get the alarm fitted, that way you can alarm your car and still leave it timing down.

I recomend Alberts car stereo in morley.

speak to Grant or Dan, they will look after you

also anouther bit of advice, ask your insurance company if you will receive a reduction in your premium with the instalation of an alarm.

also sorry for the long post:bonk: haha

cheers

Adam

I have hooked mine up in conjunction with a window closure module so when you arm the alarm you can send the windows up if you leave them down.

5 of my mates have that Autowatch too, 3 of them have window windups and 2 of the 3 have boot release also. very useful :cheers:

Have you heard of the module for the auto watch that u can install, when u arm it it says "system armed" and when u disarm it it says "system disarmed"? kinda funny at first but the joke kinda wears out :cheers: ...

sorry to hear it but at least you still have your car :)

don't understand these people. i had my valve caps stolen off my car (shiny titanium ones) in hilarys on the weekend, pissed me off but at least they didn't touch my rims or anything else... as far as i know, i only noticed this morning.

i feel violated enough, i'm sure you feel worse.

cyclops (Dymatec or something)

also do one, basically has all the same features.

I have glass break sensor, knock sensor, boot and bonnet sensors, u can also get ultrasonics and wat not, but i decided not to.

I also have the auto window winder aswell.

And Yas, my car does that. :spank:

Ive got a cyclops cat 4 alarm 2...with microsensors.

You can also adjust the sensitivity.

(so it doesnt go off like mine when a leaf rubs against your car, haha)

Here is a link to silviawa. Raheem is the man to see. Done alarms for many people i know.

http://www.silviawa.com/forums/index.php?s...?showtopic=4503

Installing a turbo timer isn't the best idea if you want better security. I think they're able to hack into the ignition easier.

I have a Black Widow alarm in mine with shock sensor.. only been in a few months and working well.. but now I wish that I just spent more and bought a paging remote.. I was literally 2mins walk down the road and kinda in view of the car and I didn't see the shock sensor going off when someone reversed into my parked car recently. They didn't hit it very bad so it would have only beeped & flashed at them, but had they hit it worse I don't know if I would have heard the alarm from there anyway. Anyway the alarm beeped at me when I returned so I knew something had happened which is a good thing I guess. That alarm cost me about $350 incl install.

The fact is if someone really wants to steal it, they will, there's not all that much you can do. There are alarms available with GPS tracking, which seems like an excellent idea, but then recently there was a very expensive yacht that was stolen from melbourne & last reported heading to Hobart by the GPS system.. and I believe never recovered....

Most alarms are just a fancy keyless entry.

Make sure you get it installed by a professional installer.. don't get it done by some crap franchise, we've had problems with the alarm on our 32 for months.

Essential: black wire, battery backup, shock sensor, all opening points covered bonnet/boot etc, 2point, tilt sensor, insurance!

Recommend: remote pager (covering a good distance), 3point immobiliser (tho some people have problems with the fuel pump immobiliser)

And anything else I've forgotten :)

Hope thats of help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...