Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, im sure all of you are well aware of the news in regards to all these skylines that have been getting stolen > Frankly its getting me a little paranoid even if i still do have full insurance....

I was reading in auto salon magazine a new security device called "Car smoke Security system" wanted to know what you think about this system and if anyone has it installed in there car, and is it a defect??????

I'm also looking to buy a clublock

looking for a good brand ????

Any feed back would be great!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70874-extra-security-for-skylines/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Lol guys, I think he was hoping for a serious reply.

I have a 3 point immobiliser but I think one of them in addition to a club lock should be plenty unless you're leaving the car in a place where theives would have the time to remove/replace a stearing wheel or tow it away.

I refuse to leave my car in vulnerable places.

Those new snap off steering wheel kits, any one know much about them???

It is, silly as it sounds a boss kit that you can snap off and take the wheel with you, thus making the car hard to steer for would be joyriders.

I saw them in speed last month I think.

one good thing rearly mentioned is a main power key. it goes inline to your starter from your battery (it is the same big red plastic key that you see on the race cars). you can fit this underbonnet and take it with you. Another thing I haven't seen in years is an actual fuel line lock - same idea as the red power key, but goes into the fuel line.

basically use as meany methods as you can :P

Coming from SA I can tell you that no matter what you put in your car they can steal it if they really want it. It's only going to deter them but if they want it it's gone.

Get a 9mm para, trunk monkey and a **** off big dog. That should help.

But seriously I know of guys that can steal cars with tracking units and still get away with them. If you drive it to an airport apparently all the radars around there block out the tracker. i know of other ways but I'm not gonna give anyone ideas.

In SA they test out all of this latest and greatest equipment and 99.9% of it will be stolen.

If you drive it to an airport apparently all the radars around there block out the tracker.

Thats BS at least for most tracking systems if not all.

But seriously I know of guys that can steal cars with tracking units and still get away with them.  

so if you know them why dont you turn them in?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...