Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My latch is now fixed.

Does your latch feel like new? My safety pin doesn't look as thick as yours and the latch doesn't feel as strong as before it broke.

The ash tray opens under heavy acceleration. I'm not sure exactly what's causing the problem. I haven't looked at it in months.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

You are a legend mate.

It works a treat, but when i was putting the safety pin in place (after i cut the sharp point of with plyers) i stabbed my finger with it, pissed out blood! I think i hit the bone cause it hurts like hell!!!

Once again thanks heeps for the guide, but mabey put a warning for beware of idoits like myself getting stabbed by the pin :D

Cheers

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

Ok it's an old thread, but bloody hell what a great idea!

I did this yesterday. It kept p!ssing me off when the console lid would unlatch and swing open :D

Is sooo easy to fix- Nissan should've put a spring in there to begin with...

Thanks for the ingenious threads- keep 'em coming :)

agreed, f**king excellent! you are a champion!

mine broke the first day i owned my car, and has been pissing me off for over 5 fkn years, unlatching and flying open when i gas it!

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I had the same problem a while back.

I just cut off a 2cm long piece of standard garden hose and shoved it in the latch.

Works a treat and you don't even have to remove the lid to push it in.

  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Hey all,

Anyone else got a broken centre console latch?

You know, the little button you press to open that compartment behind the hand brake that you rest your left elbow on??

I have found on both my R33's that these were broken and didn't realise how annoying it had been till I fixed them.

Here's how I did it -

WHAT YOU WILL NEED - All you will need is a medium sized safety pin, Phillips head screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

TIME – 10 minutes.

DIFFICULTY – Piss easy! I reckon I could teach a monkey to do this.

STEP 1.

Remove console lid by undoing the 3 screws that go down into the console.

This may require a little gentle jiggling to clear the hinge springs after the screws are removed.

You should have the lid as in pic console01.

STEP 2.

Remove hinge from lid (3 screws) and all the screws (8) holding the plastic underside of the lid in place.

This will allow you to take out the latch, removing the broken bits of plastic that have been rattling round in there.

Refer pic console02.

STEP 3.

Find a medium sized safety pin, make sure that the size of the hole part on the pin is a snug fit over the latch pivot (pic console05).

Cut the head and point of the pin off, and bend with the pliers as per pics console03 & console04.

STEP 4.

Place pin within the latch as shown in the rest of the pics, then trim the pins top arm to be close to flush with the face of the plastic (pic console06).

STEP 5.

Put everything back together.

You should now have a nice firm feeling, spring loaded latch.

Hope this helps! :)

post-12522-1123161356.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...