Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My latch is now fixed.

Does your latch feel like new? My safety pin doesn't look as thick as yours and the latch doesn't feel as strong as before it broke.

The ash tray opens under heavy acceleration. I'm not sure exactly what's causing the problem. I haven't looked at it in months.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

You are a legend mate.

It works a treat, but when i was putting the safety pin in place (after i cut the sharp point of with plyers) i stabbed my finger with it, pissed out blood! I think i hit the bone cause it hurts like hell!!!

Once again thanks heeps for the guide, but mabey put a warning for beware of idoits like myself getting stabbed by the pin :D

Cheers

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

Ok it's an old thread, but bloody hell what a great idea!

I did this yesterday. It kept p!ssing me off when the console lid would unlatch and swing open :D

Is sooo easy to fix- Nissan should've put a spring in there to begin with...

Thanks for the ingenious threads- keep 'em coming :)

agreed, f**king excellent! you are a champion!

mine broke the first day i owned my car, and has been pissing me off for over 5 fkn years, unlatching and flying open when i gas it!

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I had the same problem a while back.

I just cut off a 2cm long piece of standard garden hose and shoved it in the latch.

Works a treat and you don't even have to remove the lid to push it in.

  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Hey all,

Anyone else got a broken centre console latch?

You know, the little button you press to open that compartment behind the hand brake that you rest your left elbow on??

I have found on both my R33's that these were broken and didn't realise how annoying it had been till I fixed them.

Here's how I did it -

WHAT YOU WILL NEED - All you will need is a medium sized safety pin, Phillips head screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

TIME – 10 minutes.

DIFFICULTY – Piss easy! I reckon I could teach a monkey to do this.

STEP 1.

Remove console lid by undoing the 3 screws that go down into the console.

This may require a little gentle jiggling to clear the hinge springs after the screws are removed.

You should have the lid as in pic console01.

STEP 2.

Remove hinge from lid (3 screws) and all the screws (8) holding the plastic underside of the lid in place.

This will allow you to take out the latch, removing the broken bits of plastic that have been rattling round in there.

Refer pic console02.

STEP 3.

Find a medium sized safety pin, make sure that the size of the hole part on the pin is a snug fit over the latch pivot (pic console05).

Cut the head and point of the pin off, and bend with the pliers as per pics console03 & console04.

STEP 4.

Place pin within the latch as shown in the rest of the pics, then trim the pins top arm to be close to flush with the face of the plastic (pic console06).

STEP 5.

Put everything back together.

You should now have a nice firm feeling, spring loaded latch.

Hope this helps! :)

post-12522-1123161356.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...