Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got some turbos that came with my car yesterday and they are r32 n1 turbos with 0.60 comp and a 0.64 rear housing. I was wondering if you guys know anything about them and there rated power? The comp is bigger than r34 n1 (0.42) turbos and they are rated at 500ps at 1.23 bar. They said that it had late model n1's but I don't know much about the different sizings and power ratings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71152-60-comp-64-turb-gtr-turbos-power/
Share on other sites

Rosdyr32

not sure if this will help - but I had R32 N1's on my GTR - and I think they match your specs of 60/.64

BUT

They were only rated at 300ps each I think.

I now have R34 N1s and they are rated at 320ps each. I've also herd that 18psi (1.23 bar) is about as much as you would want to push them. They will go to 21psi when pushed - but only if you can keep them cool (BIG FMIC)

Have a look at the R34 N1's on nismo.com for some more info

HtH

I got some turbos that came with my car yesterday and they are r32 n1 turbos with 0.60 comp and a 0.64 rear housing. I was wondering if you guys know anything about them and there rated power? The comp is bigger than r34 n1  (0.42) turbos and they are rated at 500ps at 1.23 bar. They said that it had late model n1's but I don't know much about the different sizings and power ratings.

I have R32 nismo Turbos on my R32 GTR and have the same markings as yours do. They are great looking turbos and will perform very well for the street. They are rated at 300ps each and will make very good power at 22pds. I have seen them on an r32 which makes 322kw at all 4 wheels!

Excellent turbos and they should look like this:

thanks guys I did a search as well and they are only r32 n1's but they have no shaft play so I'll put them on and see how they go. At what type of revs do they make boost and when do they reach full boost? At what power output will I max out the stock injectors. Also when I turn the car off the fuel pump stops but another pump goes for about 5 seconds. What is it?

Mine started boosting @ ~3k rpm - and held good power all the way to the red line - even past it some times ;) -> 8500rpm and still pulling strong

I was getting a good 8-9psi by 3500rpm – but I was not running with an EBC at that time.

full boost by 5K rpm

WOW - 22 psi - what's the diff between N1s and Nismos - anyone ?

If you guys have 0.60 compressor and 0.64 exhaust housings they are not N1's.

They're Nismo/Garrett Group A turbos. N1's have same housing A/R's as stock on both sides (Compressor 0.42, Exhaust 0.48). It's the way N1 turbo wheels are shaped as well as the housing internal paths that give more power. N1 turbos are apparently good for at least 280 -300 rwkW with Group A turbos have been proven for 350 rwkW+. Bigger compressor housings aren't naturally a better choice, especially on a GT-R. For this reason I chose GT-R spec HKS GT-SS turbos. Remember too much compressor flow at the wrong rpm will make a relatively stock and untuned car surge. Now can you tell me why HKS rate the GT-R spec GT-SS at 320 ps each (0.42 Compressor, 0.64 Exhaust) and the generic GT-SS (0.60 Compressor, 0.64 Exhaust housings) at 280 ps ? It's all to do with developing the wheel shapes and inside housing shapes for particular engines and purposes. My GT-SS turbos hit 1.3 bar by 3500rpm mate. In a GT-R 5000rpm is way too late for a street circuit car. Genuine N1 and GT-SS turbos will kill Group A turbos in reponse full stop. My point, don't go too big. (Like GT-RS turbos for the street. Not good.)

[quote=. My GT-SS turbos hit 1.3 bar by 3500rpm mate.

1.3 Bar @3500 rpm ?

what other mods do you have ?

I have the same turbos for my car , havent put them in yet but would love to have 1.3 bar even @ 4000 rpm in my stock internals engine .

If you guys have 0.60 compressor and 0.64 exhaust housings they are not N1's.

They're Nismo/Garrett Group A turbos. N1's have same housing A/R's as stock on both sides (Compressor 0.42, Exhaust 0.48). It's the way N1 turbo wheels are shaped as well as the housing internal paths that give more power. N1 turbos are apparently good for at least 280 -300 rwkW with Group A turbos have been proven for 350 rwkW+. Bigger compressor housings aren't naturally a better choice, especially on a GT-R. For this reason I chose GT-R spec HKS GT-SS turbos. Remember too much compressor flow at the wrong rpm will make a relatively stock and untuned car surge. Now can you tell me why HKS rate the GT-R spec GT-SS at 320 ps each (0.42 Compressor, 0.64 Exhaust) and the generic GT-SS (0.60 Compressor, 0.64 Exhaust housings) at 280 ps ? It's all to do with developing the wheel shapes and inside housing shapes for particular engines and purposes. My GT-SS turbos hit 1.3 bar by 3500rpm mate. In a GT-R 5000rpm is way too late for a street circuit car. Genuine N1 and GT-SS turbos will kill Group A turbos in reponse full stop. My point, don't go too big. (Like GT-RS turbos for the street. Not good.)

1.3 bar at 3500rpm???? WTF???

Are you running an RB 30/ OS 3 litre????

Stock turbos get full boost at about 3500rpm, surely GTSS's won't?!?!?!

1.3 bar at 3500rpm???? WTF???

Are you running an RB 30/ OS 3 litre????

Stock turbos get full boost at about 3500rpm, surely GTSS's won't?!?!?!

Nah mate. The exhaust manifolds are mega dollar Kaminali's. They are so wicked combined with my custom exhaust with zero backpressure. HKS dumps, HKS 2 x 70/85mm stainless front pipe then 4 inch Magic cat (get one - they flow 750 cfm), 90 mm rest of the way with NO RESONATOR to a HKS 95mm/120mm muffler. It's way better than the Hi power HKS setup. I had this set up on std turbos bar the cat and manifolds. Changed to the manifolds and within 5km of driving the car the front turbo violently snapped the wheel off at only 1 bar at 3000rpm! Seriously these manifolds made the world of diiference, if you look at the exhaust flange for the turbo - there's about 50% more air hitting the exhaust wheel. I chaged turbos not long after so I've never driven with the stock manifolds with GT-SS turbos.

Never driven any other modified GT-R's either but I am just saying what actually happens in the car. It's an absolute animal off the bottom. I've G-tech it and it does 0-100 in a best so far of 4.11 seconds with ceramic button Xclutch.The ball bearing nature of the GT-SS turbos really are that good.You spin stock turbos with your fingers, they stop very quickly(second or so). My GT-SS turbos keep spinning for about 25 seconds and the wheels also weigh less than stockers. When the engine is revved (Stationary)to 4000rpm or so you can actually HEAR the turbos spooling down for about 40 - 50 seconds through the exhaust or the air cleaners.

I've seen another car with 2530 turbos hit 20psi by 2800rpm with the RB30/26 combo to answer the 3 litre question. Also that link with the reference to the N1's I've held the roller N1's(I nearly bought them) and it definatly has a big .48 on the exhaust entry. Look I'm not a big net surfer and jump on forums bugger all. This is all just from modifying my own cars and what I've found out whilst doing so.

Nah mate. The exhaust manifolds are mega dollar Kaminali's. They are so wicked combined with my custom exhaust with zero backpressure. HKS dumps, HKS 2 x 70/85mm stainless front pipe then 4 inch Magic cat (get one -  they flow 750 cfm), 90 mm rest of the way with NO RESONATOR to a HKS 95mm/120mm muffler. It's way better than the Hi power HKS setup. I had this set up on std turbos bar the cat and manifolds. Changed to the manifolds and within 5km of driving the car the front turbo violently snapped the wheel off at only 1 bar at 3000rpm! Seriously these manifolds made the world of diiference, if you look at the exhaust flange for the turbo - there's about 50% more air hitting the exhaust wheel. I chaged turbos not long after so I've never driven with the stock manifolds with GT-SS turbos.

Never driven any other modified GT-R's either but I am just saying what actually happens in the car. It's an absolute animal off the bottom. I've G-tech it and it does 0-100 in a best so far of 4.11 seconds with ceramic button Xclutch.The ball bearing nature of the GT-SS turbos really are that good.You spin stock turbos with your fingers, they stop very quickly(second or so). My GT-SS turbos keep spinning for about 25 seconds and the wheels also weigh less than stockers. When the engine is revved (Stationary)to 4000rpm or so you can actually HEAR the turbos spooling down for about 40 - 50 seconds through the exhaust or the air cleaners.  

I've seen another car with 2530 turbos hit 20psi by 2800rpm with the RB30/26 combo to answer the 3 litre question. Also that link with the reference to the N1's I've held the roller N1's(I nearly bought them) and it definatly has a big .48 on the exhaust entry. Look I'm not a big net surfer and jump on forums bugger all. This is all just from modifying my own cars and what I've found out whilst doing so.

Have u got a dyno graph showing power and boost pressure???

Have u got a dyno graph showing power and boost pressure???

It's only ever been dynoed when I bought it in Melbourne at 224.5 kW at the wheels at 1 bar. Thats stock turbos and a slipping standard clutch. Mate this is Alice Springs. Nearest 4WD dyno in Adelaide 1500km away. Only 2WD one in town here at Street Torque but I'm not running an R33 GT-R V-Spec on the 2WD. It kills the transfer case, I don't like dynos at the best of times. Anyway what's so unusual about what I'm saying. Look at 400kw GTR's post in this section and he has GT2530 which full boost at 4000rpm and GT-SS turbos are way sharper than those but are limited to 1.6 bar max. Further mods include Blitz LM vspec intercooler (old style 600 x 300 x102) , Trust remote oil cooler, 1260 kg ceramic 9 button Xclutch + lightenied flywheel, reset valve clearance, oil separator kit, Kevlar timing belt, Tomei 1.2mm head gasket(8.7:1) and steel intake/exhaust/throttle gaskets, HKS wastegate actuators, the exhaust stuff and the STANDARD COMPUTER-NEVER TUNED. Car has had running air/fuel analysis on road through rev range and is still rich at around 10.1:1 at full load up to 8000rpm(remember NT- 10kms from home and theres no speed limit and the roads are good enough to it). Nothing tricky just a turbosmart boost controller because they're always guaranteed to work properly. The car is ridiculous for the street it really is and 180km/h in 3rd gear(speed limited) feels like 90km/h in a VX Clubsport. GT-SS turbos would spool up at 2500rpm on any good 3L(RB30's aren't that great). My Supra spools up a To4E(which is a decent sized turbo and plain bearing) to 1.2 bar at just below 25oorpm and does 280km/h.

BK - That's very impressive, 1.3 bar at 3500rpm with GT-SS's on a standard RB26!!!!!

Also you are still running standard ecu?????

Also, ur GTR can be tuned on 2wd dyno, just take out the front driveshaft....

Just have never heard of anybody achieving such boost at those revs, can anybody else here running GT-SS's confirm this???? Surely there must be quite a few GTR's getting around now with these turbos???

If so please comment.....

BK - That's very impressive, 1.3 bar at 3500rpm with GT-SS's on a standard RB26!!!!!

Also you are still running standard ecu?????

Also, ur GTR can be tuned on 2wd dyno, just take out the front driveshaft....

Just have never heard of anybody achieving such boost at those revs, can anybody else here running GT-SS's confirm this???? Surely there must be quite a few GTR's getting around now with these turbos???  

If so please comment.....

Look at Tom's car from BD4's in Zoom 86-mines very similar bar suspension and ECU(I bought all the HKS stuff bar turbos from him). Yeah I think I'll wait to go to Adelaide and get a Power FC installed from people who know how to tune them. Power I would hope at 1 bar would be 280-290rwkW and hopefully around low 300's rwkW at 1.3 bar. Keep you posted but that's pretty much as far as it goes with this car.(Unless I kill a motor or gearbox- then it's HKS 2.8L for $9000 and a OS giken box for $5000.) I'm getting an itch for another Supra but with twin GT2835's. I love Toyota's at heart but GT-R's are just such a complete package.

How do you tell what trim wheels are in the turbo? What do the stock n1 wheels measure or is it the shape of the wheels? Some people have these turbos rated at 350-400hp. How do I know if mine have different wheels because there is no shaft play at all.

  • 4 months later...

Car finally tuned with Power FC + Pump/700cc's. Stock cams, Fidanza cam gears set at 4deg adv.inlet/2deg ret. exhaust and still 1.3bar(19psi) through fc boost control. 330kW at wheels from the .42 comp/.64 turbine GT-SS turbos. z32 meters also now used. Idles like factory.(made as high as 380kw with more boost and different cam gear settings but detonation on PFC near 55. Now at 35 at max.)

Jack... talk to "you know who" man. He's done a number of cars now with them

They start spooling under 3k... ~2800 i think was the comment on the dyno/4th :P

with 1 bar well before 4000rpm, they are what im going to use among other bits and pieces. Very responsive on street

380rwkw out of GT-SS on pulp, slightly ambitious there i think, they havent got the top end 2530's have

My 33 GTR Vspec hits 1.3 at around 3500 revs on stock manifolds, has a mines computer, fuel reg, hks stainless dumps, CES tuned length front pipe, highflow cat, into a hks super drager exhaust with the resonator removed.

Its also for sale :P

makes 250kw's at all 4 running very rich and the mines ecu is untunable.

My 33 GTR Vspec hits 1.3 at around 3500 revs on stock manifolds, has a mines computer, fuel reg, hks stainless dumps, CES tuned length front pipe, highflow cat, into a hks super drager exhaust with the resonator removed.

Its also for sale :(

makes 250kw's at all 4 running very rich and the mines ecu is untunable.

What sort of turbos does it run?

Jack... talk to "you know who" man. He's done a number of cars now with them

They start spooling under 3k... ~2800 i think was the comment on the dyno/4th  ;)

with 1 bar well before 4000rpm, they are what im going to use among other bits and pieces. Very responsive on street

380rwkw out of GT-SS on pulp, slightly ambitious there i think, they havent got the top end 2530's have

Slightly ambitious ? I wasn't expecting anything. I was glad to see it break 300 kw. But they seem to out-perform 2530 in response and top end and be closer to the 2540 mark in outright power for the same boost(GT-SS stop at 1.6 bar,2540's at 2 bar). They are rated identical output to 2530's and were only releaed last year being better in design. Don't worry, a lot of people there thought it had 2530's or 2540's on the dyno tuning. Doesn't matter I'm happy with the output now. Power will be capped at that.

Edited by BK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...