Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for the resistor pack you can use 6 10W 10 ohm resistors from Jaycar/Dick Smith. Will cost about $6 but then just package them nicely in a box.

Your mom fixes cars????

:) oh sorry, "he"

with the resistors you already have Roy's detail on fitting them? this is the same but just solder the power wire into the 6 resistors at one end (twist them together) then run the other ends to each injector in place of the power wires they have. The switching is done in the ecu to earth the injector and make go bang.......

for the resistor pack you can use 6 10W 10 ohm resistors from Jaycar/Dick Smith. Will cost about $6 but then just package them nicely in a box.

does anyone know the exact ohm and W resistors to use. i've read on these forums so many different things. 8.5 ohms, 7 ohm, 10W, 17W. i don't want to wire the wrong sized ones in and short something out.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
appaerently, no-one on here knows. so i bought some 6.8ohm resistors. i'll let you know how they go real soon

Hey SluggerS13

Did you end up putting them in and did you take any pics of finished result?

I bought the 10ohm, 10Watt as found another site which a couple of people claimed they used them.

I once found a page which someone posted pics and full instructions of Jarcar resistors installed but have been searching for weeks and can not find it.

Spewing.

thanks.

There was a page in here, I am sure it was the wanted section in response to somebody looking for the factory item, and it was explained how to make it with fairly clear instructions.. but I can't find it in here anymore either :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...