Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Hicas system is uses the pwr steering fluid to run it's system. One of the warnings that you can get with Hicas is low fluid levels, which also means your pwr streering couls also be low (quite probably.) Check fluid and check for leaks around the hoses to the system. Leaks are not uncommon - GTR, GTS 300ZX, etc...

r33gts, I would recommend you first check the power steering fluid as that may cause the heavy steering, and the HICAS light to illuminate.

Alternatively check the connections to the electric HICAS unit behind the diff as some experience heavy steering when it is disabled.

The power steering in the skyline is variable, getting heavier at high speed so it may be some other electronic fault. With that in mind do a diagnostic check on the ecu as well.

  • 1 month later...
i have the same problem buy mine is caused by fitting an aftermarket steering wheel did you fit a aftermarket wheel?

Hey man,

I have an aftermarket wheel and my HICAS light is on 24/7.

Just wondering if yours is on ALL the time aswell or if its only on around corners etc.

Also has your steering become quite heavy since the new wheel?

For those with aftermarket steering wheel and boss kits, HICAS is a common problem.....firstly make sure your Boss kit is HICAS compatible it needs sensors in the boss kit.

Secondly, make sure your steering wheel is on straight......loosen it off again, drive along in a nice straight line say 20m, then pull the wheel off and put it on again. Then repeat until you are certain it is straight. HICAS will report an error if the wheel is crooked since it thinks the car is turning all the time :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Revolution race gear sell the HKB boss kit for HICAS equipped cars. Well they got mine in. My HICAS light comes on sumtimes after 20-30 mins sumtimes not at all. I think my car needs a wheel allignment, as either way i adjust the boss kit one spline either way is still out... Would this cause the light to come on?? There is a HICAS diagnostic isnt there?

Revolution race gear sell the HKB boss kit for HICAS equipped cars. Well they got mine in. My HICAS light comes on sumtimes after 20-30 mins sumtimes not at all. I think my car needs a wheel allignment, as either way i adjust the boss kit one spline either way is still out... Would this cause the light to come on?? There is a HICAS diagnostic isnt there?

yea my hicas light comes on after 20-30 mins driving also.. only really comes on if im a freeway or something..

also running a HKB boss kit with hicas support

Guys you can run a hicas diagnostic by following these steps:

Procedure:

➢ Switch ignition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park.

➢ Start engine

➢ Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20

degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the

brake pedal once more this will enter diagnostic mode.

➢ Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10km/hr, this will

enter full diagnostic mode.

➢ The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will

flash a code indicating any problems.

➢ Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit.

➢ Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10km/hr,

or ignition is turned off.

The codes are as follows:

HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1989-1993

1 HICAS solenoid right hand

2 HICAS solenoid left hand

3 Cut off valve

4 Power steering solenoid

5 Vehicle speed sensor

6 Steering angle sensor

7 Neutral position sensor

8 (Auto) Parking brake sensor,

(Manual) Clutch sensor

9 (Auto) Inhibitor switch,

(Manual) Neutral sensor

HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1993-1999

11 HICAS control unit

12 HICAS motor power supply not present

13 HICAS motor output not present

21 Vehicle speed sensor not present

22 Steering angle sensor not present

23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present

24 Rear main sensor input not present

25 Rear sub sensor input not present

31 Parking brake sensor input not present

32 (Auto) Inhibitor switch input not present

(Manual) Neutral switch input not present

33 Engine speed signal not present

Hope this helps!

My light also seems to come on from time to time. When I start the car it stays on for a couple of hundred meters, then when I tip into conrners it comes on again, and sometimes when I give it a boot full in a straight line. Weird?? I have the standard wheel so I assume the boss kit hasn't been tampered with...

Does anyone know if the light is meant to come on whislt cornering?

  • 1 month later...

After running my R32 GTR in diagnostic mode the Hicas light flashes four times quickly and then the fifth flash is a long one. The Hicas light turns off for a couple of seconds before repeating the above sequence.

I have read the Hicas diagnostic codes above but I am unsure how to interpret them. Any help would be appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...