Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am a fresher in this forum, just joined today. I was planning to upgrade and am half thinking about a R34 GTT tiptronic. Hence had few enquiries:

- Whats the stock performance specs 0-100, 1/4 etc etc.

- Approx how much it wd cost to make it a 11-12s car.

-How upgradable the turbo is to a bigger replacement, power gain, cost.

-Pros/Cons of tiptronic.

If you could please help. I tried the search feature, but still bit confused.

Brief inputs on any of the above wd be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/
Share on other sites

Rough guess, 6.5 seconds and 14.2. Unofficial attempt at realistic figures.

Big $ difference between 11 and 12 seconds and a couple of different ways to get there.

Turbo is almost the same as R33 (same fitting anyway) so anything that fit that will fit R34. 100's of options at all different costs.

Tiptronic is easier in traffic, cheaper to upgrade (ie a shift kit costs less than an upgraded clutch 350-1000+) goes a little slower, can't use PowerFC for ECU upgrade.

Rather than a search, perhaps a few weeks browsing will sort you out for information. I read the forums for 3 months before I bought my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1336466
Share on other sites

Maybe

12.9 seconds will require 200 rwkw AT LEAST.

To get an R34 GTT at 200rwkw you will need the following.

Front Mount $1000

Power FC $1200

Boost controller $500

Fitting and tuning of all $700

Pineapples fitted $200

Fuel Pump fitted $400

That's about $4000

.THEORETICALLY. That should net a 12 second pass.

More likely with sticky rubber.

Into the 11s...... You need about 270 rwkw.

For that you need a brand name turbo ($3000 fitted) or highflow ($2000 fitted)

Cams $1200 fitted.

Retune of computer $500

Slicks or Nittos $800

That another $4500 - $5500

Into the 10s? Forget ot before you budget another $10 - $15k.

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1336895
Share on other sites

Manual would get a flat 6 i would think.

I just bought a 34gtt tiptronic. I guess u also

have to allow for increased drivetrain loss for

auto. I don't know what power the auto can take

apparently high temp is killer so fit a good cooler.

Tiptronic pro's: auto mode - same as any auto

tiptronic mode - good for compression slow downs,

hill climbs, its a novelty(steering wheel shifts are a

bit of a wank imho)

Cons: slower than manual to up/down shift, for me

at least (after owning for 2 weeks only) more difficult

to control than manual - sure Ill get used to it.

Manual is better apart from traffic stop starts, but

for an extra $5-6k i couldn't justify it. Esp when conversion

can be done for approx $3k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1337869
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot everyone for all the inputs. Now I know more. Just planning ahead the finances I should prepare for. Looks like a big threshold credit cards required ;) . Money well spent for the R34 cause.

Also, I really just noticed the differemce between bodies of GTT and GTR (HOW could I not notice it before???)- the wide body of the GTR. THATS why they look sexier....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1337980
Share on other sites

Zymotic - It already has a good cooler for the transmission standard.

I actually find that possibly due to the cooler, it doesn't warm up fast enough.

You'l find that if you use the steering wheel buttons for a couple of months you'll never look back and wonder why you said it was a bit of a wank.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1337983
Share on other sites

Zymotic - It already has a good cooler for the transmission standard.

Good, how much power before it goes bang?

You'l find that if you use the steering wheel buttons for a couple of months you'll never look back and wonder why you said it was a bit of a wank.

Think I'm still getting used to the semi-auto type setup.

Maybe after i get used to the standard shift I'll trial the

wheel controls.

Do u use tiptronic mode for the track or drags?

Do u keep TCS on for track? (I've noticed when i give the

car a bit of stick one side of the rear seems to deaden [for

want of a better term] guess this is TCS at work, its wierd)

Had any dyno runs with your new hi flo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1338475
Share on other sites

Hasn't gone bang yet and I'm over 200 rwkw.

I wouldn't even bother with the standard shift.

I use tiptronic everywhere, street, track, strip.

I also turn the Traction control off as soon as I start the car every time. Actually it's been broken for a week which is fine with me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72637-r34-gtt-enquiry/#findComment-1338780
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...