Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much heat do you think it will take to get the 595 Rs-R working ok for street conditions.

Do you think under normal street conditions they will grip more, or less than the normal 595ss ?

Im looking for an amazing street tyre, thats going to be able to be ok on the track. I dont really want to run a street tyre + a track semi at this stage.

The 595RS-R grips best when it is at 60 - 80C on the tread face, normally you wouldnt be able to generate that kind of heat on the street (unless you were driving very hard for a long time on a hot day).

However, compared to normal street tyres the 595RS-R will provide much more dry traction even when cold.

I use the RS-R's for street and track use and I dont think I will be able to go back to street tyres now, there is just so much grip available with them fitted to my Skyline... If you want extreme traction for the street you would be very happy with a set of 595RS-R's.

BTW - I have managed to get 30,000kms+ from a set of 595RS before - which goes to show that you can get good mileage from them. :D

I put sumitomo HTRZ III in 235/45zr17 94y on my skyline a couple of weeks ago, after several personal recommendations. They aren't that expensive ($190 fitted) and I've been very impressed with them so far.

Grip is good, and when they do start to loose it - ie going around a corner and you put your foot down a bit - they fail gracefully, ie slide a little bit, then a bit more if you push them. With my normal driving around town - when I wasn't trying to test them - they aren't sliding at all.

I haven't had a real go in the wet yet (hasn't been raining much when I've been out) but the one shower I did catch showed they were still sticky in the rain.

8/10

Ian

Edit: I double posted the above due to an error with the ad.yieldmanager.com that this site uses.. I'll do a post about it in the appropriate area!

Hi All,I haven't posted for a long time as I've been away working ,so I'll make up for it with this story.

As some of you will know I have a 95 GTR 33 that stays locked up in the garage unless i'm going on a trip or a decent drive as i don't like using it round town or parking it for long periods.

While I was away working recently my 19 yr old son decided that he had run all the other r31 skylines I have out of fuel and needed desperately to see his girlfriend,solution get the gtr out and take that grrrr.whilst coming home he was pulled over for a vehicle check which mean't they were going to find something wrong with every vehicle to pay their way for their night's work.

Subsequently they canaried the car for excessive noise and 2 unroadworthy tyres,not to mention the fact that my son was driving only on a learners permit grrrr,so when I got home I had an unroadworthy car in the garage thankfully with only minor scuff damage to the front bar,and a $567.00 fine which he will be paying.

I then had to find a way out of the exhaust problem which I did,and not by cutting up my $3000.00 nismo system but by another means which I won't divulge here,by the way turns out the exhaust was only 7db over the 90db limit but still it was deemed to be more of a nuisance than a harley with straight pipes which ride the steets with impunity,how can that be? then it was on to the tyres which I believed to be in more than barely roadworthy condition and this was confirmed by a tyre outlet's inspection,however then when I took the car for a roadworthy which was also demanded by the cops I was told that the 2 rear tyres were not roadworthy because the insides were worn down for about an inch inwards even though the rest of the tread was 50 percent.I then went for the forum to see what you all thought of tyre brands and types.

I had recently replaced 2 tyres with Falken fk452's 245x40x18's so thought I would replace the other two with the same,thinking they were the same tyres all around but to my surprise the ones needing replacement were falken 326's which on reading 100 or more posts on tyres I found to be absolute shit so they will not be my new choice but I am planning to put 2 more of the falken fk452's that are on the front to get them all the same.

My questions are What size wheels and tyres came out on the r33 gtr of that year and were the sizes the same front and rear?? What is the max legal size for this car,tyre and rims?? also I have read on the forum that to have a difference between front and back would cause handling problems is this right??

Also what differences can I expect if I use a 35 instead of a 40 profile? will it only be a harsher ride,as I already have tien suspension all round which already provides a hard ride, or are the handling differences significant and would a mixture of these two profiles front and back affect the diffs in any way??

Someone also wrote on the forum that gtr's are notorious for camber problems which cause this premature wear on the insides of the tyres,is this a front or rear problem??do all gtr models have this problem or has it been overcome, as I don't want to lose another set of tyres at $350 a pop if I can fix it now??

Any opinions on the Falken fk452's 245x40 x18's would also be appreciated and prices and where to get them,I would like to keep all the tyres the same so I can rotate them.Cheers In advance Greypearl.

The 595RS-R grips best when it is at 60 - 80C on the tread face, normally you wouldnt be able to generate that kind of heat on the street (unless you were driving very hard for a long time on a hot day).

However, compared to normal street tyres the 595RS-R will provide much more dry traction even when cold.

I use the RS-R's for street and track use and I dont think I will be able to go back to street tyres now, there is just so much grip available with them fitted to my Skyline... If you want extreme traction for the street you would be very happy with a set of 595RS-R's.

BTW - I have managed to get 30,000kms+ from a set of 595RS before - which goes to show that you can get good mileage from them. :)

Hi guys im new here. :)

How are the 595RS-R in the wet?

Hi All,I haven't posted for a long time as I've been away working ,so I'll make up for it with this story.

As some of you will know I have a 95 GTR 33 that stays locked up in the garage unless i'm going on a trip or a decent drive as i don't like using it round town or parking it for long periods.

While I was away working recently my 19 yr old son decided that he had run all the other r31 skylines I have out of fuel and needed desperately to see his girlfriend,solution get the gtr out and take that grrrr.whilst coming home he was pulled over for a vehicle check which mean't they were going to find something wrong with every vehicle to pay their way for their night's work.

Subsequently they canaried the car for excessive noise and 2 unroadworthy tyres,not to mention the fact that my son was driving only on a learners permit grrrr,so when I got home I had an unroadworthy car in the garage thankfully with only minor scuff damage to the front bar,and a $567.00 fine which he will be paying.

I then had to find a way out of the exhaust problem which I did,and not by cutting up my $3000.00 nismo system but by another means which I won't divulge here,by the way turns out the exhaust was only 7db over the 90db limit but still it was deemed to be more of a nuisance than a harley with straight pipes which ride the steets with impunity,how can that be? then it was on to the tyres which I believed to be in more than barely roadworthy condition and this was confirmed by a tyre outlet's inspection,however then when I took the car for a roadworthy which was also demanded by the cops I was told that the 2 rear tyres were not roadworthy because the insides were worn down for about an inch inwards even though the rest of the tread was 50 percent.I then went for the forum to see what you all thought of tyre brands and types.

I had recently replaced 2 tyres with Falken fk452's 245x40x18's so thought I would replace the other two with the same,thinking they were the same tyres all around but to my surprise the ones needing replacement were falken 326's which on reading 100 or more posts on tyres I found to be absolute shit so they will not be my new choice but I am planning to put 2 more of the falken fk452's that are on the front to get them all the same.

My questions are What size wheels and tyres came out on the r33 gtr of that year and were the sizes the same front and rear?? What is the max legal size for this car,tyre and rims?? also I have read on the forum that to have a difference between front and back would cause handling problems is this right??

Also what differences can I expect if I use a 35 instead of a 40 profile? will it only be a harsher ride,as I already have tien suspension all round which already provides a hard ride, or are the handling differences significant and would a mixture of these two profiles front and back affect the diffs in any way??

Someone also wrote on the forum that gtr's are notorious for camber problems which cause this premature wear on the insides of the tyres,is this a front or rear problem??do all gtr models have this problem or has it been overcome, as I don't want to lose another set of tyres at $350 a pop if I can fix it now??

Any opinions on the Falken fk452's 245x40 x18's would also be appreciated and prices and where to get them,I would like to keep all the tyres the same so I can rotate them.Cheers In advance Greypearl.

Hi again, Just an update on the new tyres I bought today in melb, I managed to get the

Falken fk252 in 245x40x18 for $319.00 buying only 2 so if anyones interested i can tell you where.Cheers Greypearl

For my own car I have ended up with a set of V8RS Hannkooks

Just an update about these tyres. They drive really well, nice and smooth and quite with great feel. The design of the tyre allows it to generate some grip at high speed under high load and they are progressive at the limit but the rubber compound is hard and whilst they are wearing really well they don't quite have the grip levels I am looking for.

IMO these are not ultra high performance tyres even though they are sold as such. They lack grip when accellerating off the line and low speed braking even though the corner grip isn't too bad they are not in the leguage of pilot sports goodyear F1's and not as good as the federals 595ss.

I must say overall I am dissapointed with the tyres even though they do really drive well from a feel and ride quality perspective.

If the rubber was a softer compound I think this would be a very good tyre.

At this stage with about 2000km on the tyres I am ready to remove them and buy something else. I am currently looking at the new F1 or RE-001's but due to limited tyre sizes available I cant get the exact sizes I need so I am still looking atm.

Hi guys im new here. :)

How are the 595RS-R in the wet?

I havent been in this thread for a while, sorry for the late reply... :)

They arent bad in the wet, certainly not dangerous. In the latest Motor magazine tyre test they rated best in wet braking.

I have never had any surprises in the wet and I use them as a daily driven tyre on my R32.

I havent been in this thread for a while, sorry for the late reply... :(

They arent bad in the wet, certainly not dangerous. In the latest Motor magazine tyre test they rated best in wet braking.

I have never had any surprises in the wet and I use them as a daily driven tyre on my R32.

cheers for the reply.

I currently have Yokohama DNA s Drive 255/40/17 on the rear and Bridgestone Potenza G III 234/45/17 on the front.

looks like 595 RSR come in that size, sweet.

Just wondering are there any advantages to having taller front tyres then rear, kinda looks silly, I guess the load ratings may have something to do with that. So I was thinking of going to 245/40/17 on the front, they are lower load rating but still above the recommended load rating.

Got a choice between Federal 595SS or Toyo T1R in 225/50R16's for my new GTR..

Mainly for daily driven road use for now.. May see a track day later on if I haven't gone for larger rims by then.

Which one should I go for? Or much of a muchness. Price difference isn't too much between them. Both seem to be fairly favoured on here.

  • 2 weeks later...

Looking at some options for 225/50R16 on the back end:

Nankang NS-2 $125

Federal 535 $135

Toyo TEO $154

Toyo Proxes 4 $175

I had a chat to a guy from Tyrepower on the phone (who quoted me for the Toyo's), he said the TEO is mostly as good as the Proxes 4, just doesn't perform as well in the wet. He also quoted me for Kumho KU25 ($142) and Falken ZE912 ($155) but said the Toyo's were far superior.

Any comments or other suggestions? Federal 595 is not available in this size.

I mainly do commuting, but want something that will be fun when i go for a twisty drive. Currently have BF Goodrich G-Force Sport on the front, which replaced Federal 535 (couldn't tell a difference when changed). I can't remember what's on the back at the moment - nothing special - haven't changed them since owning. I think they are called Blue Streak.

Edited by debonaire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...