Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I like the s14 's better cause theres less out the ,and the seem to hold the value better.But they should be two seater as the back seats like a esky to seat in.lol.standard skylines look tuffer but if your gona do mods the 200 is the way to go.

p.s if he gets a 200 just make sure it gets lowerd 4inch's cause there real high:lol:

There is a crap load more of the newer 200sx's around that R33 in melbourne so I wouldn't say you're going to get anything more unique. Skylines have more power, more potential for power if that's what you're after. If you want something that looks sporty and has potential then go the 200SX. Guess you have the advantage of local parts seeing as it was sold locally.

$22k for a 98 200sx seems to cheap too me.. probably got problems of some type? They seem to hover around the $30k mark.

Originally posted by predator666

There is a crap load more of the newer 200sx's around that R33 in melbourne so I wouldn't say you're going to get anything more unique. Skylines have more power, more potential for power if that's what you're after. If you want something that looks sporty and has potential then go the 200SX. Guess you have the advantage of local parts seeing as it was sold locally.  

$22k for a 98 200sx seems to cheap too me.. probably got problems of some type? They seem to hover around the $30k mark.

My friend has a 98 200sx mid spec 5sp and he paid $21k its very clean and no troubles the guy owed alot of cash ,had to sell quick.yes theres more s15 200sx out there but not s14 series 2,most are series 1 with the gay front headlights.

and as for less power ,have u ever raced 1?trust me there not that slow at all.my mate can blow stock 33's and all his got is 14psi ,3inch cat back.It may not make as much kw's as a 33 but think about it ways 300kg less!

and as for less power ,have u ever raced 1?trust me there not that slow at all.my mate can blow stock 33's and all his got is 14psi ,3inch cat back.It may not make as much kw's as a 33 but think about it ways 300kg less!

I don't know whether I said heaps less power, just potential power but really you can do anything to either... just you can probably take a gts-t further for the same price. And on figures for standard form: S14 is 0-100 in 6.9...R33 GTS-T 6.2

But no, i've never raced one - but i've seen plenty of pretty insane ones with 300kw+ r/w like in mags, etc. I look forward to giving it a try at the track though sometime in my R33 ..could have a 180sx/200sx vs Skylines day that would be pretty good fun :P

But anyway, i don't know much about the 200sx and all the in's and out's so i'll keep quiet now :bahaha: I like them, and considered getting one but i like the skylines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...