Jump to content
SAU Community

I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

Can't keep the stock solenoid? Is this because its suppose to be running in series with the wastegate? How come bleedvalves can still use the stock solenoid though? Is it becuase they are running parallel?

So confusing lol. Thanks again haha.

Andy

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted

yeh,i got the other bleed valve off u CEFF1E,

i cant really see a difference in the two.

yeh ur 1 worked, i been runnin 14psi on my std turbo for over 1 week now:)

n i didnt connect anything back to the bov.

chrissso Proficient

chrissso

Posted
Posted
ok,the bleed valve i just took out,its not connected to the bov at all, in the instructions simark sent me,says i should connect it back to the bov, when i connected the first bleed valve to the bov, it wouldnt go up or down in boost,just made flutter noises

I've had this before. Only assuming, but - Sounds like the bleed valve is on the same pressure line as the BOV. The bleed valve will backflow and let presure in instead of bleeding when the throttle shuts and that means that there isn't a vacuum behind the BOV, so it wont open. Then the turbo surges.

Thats why I'm getting one of these...

My idle was higher, due to air backflowing through a bleed valve. Then I noticed that the BOV would not blow off when I increased boost.

Dee 33 Community Regular

Dee 33

Posted
Posted

So let me get this straight.

A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position.

A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit.

This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal.

In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost.

Comprende?

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

I'm having a few issues with boost control also and for ~$30 I'm willing to give this a go even if it doesnt work.

I noticed someone mention they received a blue one as opposed to the red ones pictured. What other colours are avilable? If possible I would prefer a black one.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
So let me get this straight.

A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position.

A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit.

This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal.

In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost.

Comprende?

i had a dog and his name was BINGO!

simark87 Enthusiast

simark87

Posted
Posted

I guys

Thanks a heap for your interest in the turbotech boost controller.

I have now received orders for 30 and have already sent out 19 of them.

As all good things come to an end, the $28 price is unstainable with the cost and time involved.

I will of course continue to look after skyliners with a revised cost of $35 express delivered. Which is far less than I charge on ebay.

Pretty cheap for a F%^$ing great boost controller!!

Thanks gain

Mark

p.s keep those pics scoming its a blast to see them :headspin:

tuitahi Community Regular

tuitahi

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

please excuse me but I'm a little lost... I have a 33 gtst and have looked at my setup (stock solenoid) but don't fully understand where to put this.

Can someone post a pick of an R33 install... am I fitting it in place of the solenoid? ie, just remove the hoses from the solenoid and put them on the valve, if I remove the solenoid from the picture altogether, I'm left with three hoses. Which two do I use?

Sorry if someone has already made it clear, my eyes must be blurry

mickr33 Community Regular

mickr33

Posted
Posted

Received my boost controller today and have installed it. Um what can i say but OMFG are you serious. Got mine for $28 but now gone up to $35. Guys this is penuts. This is the best controller iv'e come across. I previously had a GFB bleed (rubbish) value and this unit simply replaces it in the same position as previously stated. I now have it set at 12psi and upon testing it, it did NOT spike at all and did NOT drop of at the top end where the GFB valve would spike and go from 15psi and drop of to 10psi. What a bargin for such a good product. Congratulations Mark and thankyou.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
Get that patent happeneing.  

 

Edit: Bummer, looks like you can't get patents if you have already sold the product. :P

 

http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1097642.htm

m sure you could work something out, maybe "CHANGE" wink, wink, nudge, nudge the design then patent that one instead??? :headspin:

cd04 Contributor

cd04

Posted
Posted

I would like to add myself to the list of satisfied customers. I bought this valve about three weeks ago after reading the first post. This is definately the best $32.50 i have spent on my car, instant boost and no spiking!!!! :headspin:

I spent my weekend finetuning the boost and now i can fang with peace of mind

:wassup:

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yep i agree mark. you should patent these. if this is just one forum for one model of car and you have sold like 30 of them to us. Imagne if you distributed this on every car forum around the world.

Ionos Community Regular

Ionos

Posted
Posted

Hehe guys the ball and spring design isn't something new, it's been around for a while. :rofl:

Still a great controller thought, mine is going fantastic, no spiking, constant boost that builds fast.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...