Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz

I need to get a hand of 12 exhaust manifold stud bolts for an Rb20det

im in melb, anywhere u suggest and also are they the same bolt they use on the VL

sum1 was saying that they are most likey the same coz the rb30 rb20 rb25 use the same stud bolts???

does any1 kno??

PM me please with ur ideas?

thanks joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73480-exhaust-manifold-stud-bolts/
Share on other sites

i recently had my xhaust studs changed cost me 800 bucks but some were snapped in the block thats y i didnt attempt it myself. i got told to change to copper washer and nuts?? not sure if this is right but thats wat they did. i went to repco wen i was gonna do it they were absolutely useless spent half an hour in there they couldnt even find em for a rb30

cattivo_69: As BHDave said, a decent turbo shop can get that gasket.

daler32: how much labour were you charged (just out of interest)? The copper washer suggestion is interesting: I wouldn't have thought they were necessary given the purpose of the nuts is merely to hold the manifold in place against the gaskets. Usually you use copper washers for things like the oil/water lines on the turbos where the washer performs the role of a gasket (because copper is soft and compresses). There is also the issue of differing expansion rates, but its probably not a problem on something as small as a copper washer.

Interesting nonetheless.

Edit: I have also found some Repcos to be next to useless (and usually more expensive than other auto shops)

Lucien.

Start them buy hand so you don't cross thread them, then just use a ring spanner with the ole' two nuts-tightened-against-each-other trick until the thread disappears in to the head.

Edit: or do you mean for the nuts that hold the manifold to the studs?

LW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..   
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...