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hey peeps about to get my GTR back from the shops with new mods.

what do u think the car will make? and how fast down the 1/4 mile?

and how much boost i should dial

it's got

r33 GTR crank (nitroed strenthened and shot pened)

forged pistons and strenghened conrods

1.2mm tomei gasket

N1 turbos

adjustable camgears

N1 water and oil pump

N1 engine gaskets

bored and honed R33 GTR Vspec block

3" fujitusbo catback

3"nismo cat

stock dumpipes

aftermarket front pipe

power FC

550hp fuel pump

RB20 aifrlow meters

and even thing else is stock

what do u guyz think i should be able to make??

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All that work and standard injectors? or did you forget to add them to the list.

Also considering the engine is being built and out of the car, you would be crazy not to change to aftermarket dump pipes considering you can get something like the XForce HKS style stainless copies for around $599 per set. If you choose to do these later you will pay a lot for labour as they are a pain to change with the engine in the car.

Oh and I hope you didnty get charged extra for the "N1 gasket kit"

If the engine is built, tuned and run in properly this time, I would expect in the region of 300kw at the wheels and easy low 12's / potential high 11's at the strip.

danny i agree with blitz ... surely you'd want to upgrade the injectors and dump pipes if you've got all that other work done?

if you get bigger injectors you can actually start to use those N1s !

okay point takeb would 750CC be suffcient????

]']and how much boost i should dial

i would say those turbos and a nitro'ed crank should be good for about 36psi on low boost or 38psi at the strip. should be a 10 second car if you can drive it.

Nah, not kidding mate. I run 36psi on my fully built FJ20 motor and even though I haven’t cracked a 10 yet I’m sure with some practice I will get there. Motor has been reliable up ‘till now too. Thing is people don’t understand that even though the turbo may be introducing more heat into the air at 36psi the extra heat creates special vortices within the plenum that allows the engine to consume the air more efficiently. Once the engine is in this ‘zone’ the exhaust temp goes down and this helps reduce the heat the turbo is making, which is why you can run these turbos at 36psi. it’s not a good idea on a stock motor, but on a built motor like yours with all the good bits and N1 gaskets it should handle it fine. Will be an absolute street monster. I will deffo be going down this road in the GTR soon.

Nah, not kidding mate. I run 36psi on my fully built FJ20 motor and even though I haven’t cracked a 10 yet I’m sure with some practice I will get there. Motor has been reliable up ‘till now too. Thing is people don’t understand that even though the turbo may be introducing more heat into the air at 36psi the extra heat creates special vortices within the plenum that allows the engine to consume the air more efficiently. Once the engine is in this ‘zone’ the exhaust temp goes down and this helps reduce the heat the turbo is making, which is why you can run these turbos at 36psi. it’s not a good idea on a stock motor, but on a built motor like yours with all the good bits and N1 gaskets it should handle it fine. Will be an absolute street monster. I will deffo be going down this road in the GTR soon.

hm...well i think the turbos wouldnt be able to handle the higher boost.

correct me if i am wrong

n1's if they are steel wheeled should be ok at that boost. you will probably need those bigger injectors though. it's just that most people are too soft to run at that boost as they don't understand the vorticies theory. plus a lot of them dont have built motors.

not yet, but you were there weren't you when I first wound the boost up? remember how it was good at 14psi, sh1t at 23psi (thought we'd reached the limit) and then at 36psi it really started to come into it's own. it was farking amazing.

yes injectors 700cc and dump pipes would be a great investment (if you can afford it cams would really bring the combo to life)

DO YOU KNOW WHAT N1 TURBOS YOU HAVE??

ie are they ball bearing ?

And what a/r ratio compressor and turbine

cos unfortunately n1 can refer to a whole range of different turbos, all with very different characteristics and potential.

As for the hp of this combo it will be limited to about 400rwhp (because of the injectors)

At a guess high 11's should be possible down the strip.

With larger injectors ~450rwhp (you'll need cams to get much more than that)

and this is with responsible boost levels (but will largely depend on which turbos you have)

As for 36psi wtf

i think people should stop think about boost levels so much as its only a reading of back pressure in the plenum and has little referrence to actual power. A good motor will not tend to build boost quickly and all that early because it flows well and makes power (not back pressure) boost doesn't = airflow.

which is better a motor run 9psi making 400rwhp or a motor running 36psi making 400rwhp?

my 2c

Is it expensive to get your rotator splint crogenically treated? That sounds like one impressive mod!

Yes, an engine removal and refit is required. To make the most of it I had my valves cross flowed and bench ported at the same time, and a new thrust spigot fitted to improve response on the street

36psi is about 2.5bar!! wtf!? Your not going to tell me that was on pump fuel as well?  I wait for SK's opinion of these "special vortices". !

yep, 2.45 bar. you have kind of caught me out though, it wasn't pump fuel, but rather a custom concoktion that I rubbed out at home. Gary (SK) should be able to back me up on this as it was him who taught me all I know about high boost vorticies. as for the rotator splint mods, they are more of a dark art than a science and are perhaps a topic for another day.

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