Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"original" parts from tuning houses are good, esp the original suspension upgrades, as they are very stiff. and don't require alot of setup for drift.... ohh yeah, and turn of ASM & TC. Also if you want a fast dori racer then the "original" or stage 5 turbo is good as it has a bucket load of low RPM pulling power.

TCS and ASM should be switched off at all times anyway

whats so bad about playing with it on?

it's not that it's bad, but the cars feel more responsive and are considerably quicker with ASM & TC off, has a much more realistic feel to it.

it's also heaps more fun being able pitch your car sideways into a corner... :devil1:

Save your replay then play it in replay theatre, press select while its playing to take pics. Or just do a photo drive.

Thanks VIPERGTSR01 I'll give it a go. Should produce some interesting pictures considering my demented driving style ;)

whats so bad about playing with it on?

I hate it with a passion, I drive much faster with it off.

If come on to the corner with abit of weight shift to counter some understeer the assists go off throttle and cause me to slow down drastically. The only time ive used assists on purpose is with my Nissan R92CP on Hong Kong track because of the crazy lag and then wheel spin behaviour of the Nissan at Hong Kongs low speed corners, even then I only put TCS on 2 and the rest is still off.

my friend just bought hks d1 s15.  

car is next to impossible to drift. lag lag lag boost peak. thing either spins or drives straight into a wall. spins wheels in 4th gear etc.

any one know how to get it right?

Ive spent a bit of time working on it. You have to put good tyres on it and play around with the gear ratios. Ie make them bigger. I cant drift with full power on you tap the throttle quickly should be able to hold drift without spinning out. How do you start your entry i cant feint drift very well with it only handbrake entry. But how good does it look :rofl: .

  • 4 weeks later...

The best car to drift on GT4 is the Mazda Falken RX-7 D1GP, don't touch any settings to it just put some NOS for that extra kick when need it in the middle of a drift and maybe upgrade the turbo, the rest just comes naturally with this car. give it a go when you get the hang of it with this car you dont want to drive anything else.

  • 2 weeks later...
my friend just bought hks d1 s15.  

car is next to impossible to drift. lag lag lag boost peak. thing either spins or drives straight into a wall. spins wheels in 4th gear etc.

any one know how to get it right?

Same thing happened to me at the start....Bought the BLITz and HKS D1 cars and couldn't drift them at all!

First thing to do obviously is turn all the driving aids off...

Then change the tyres to either normal "ecomomy" or normal "comfort"depending on what power the car is making ... Doing this really helps alot making sliding more predictable and easier, though you may have to change ur style a bit.

Also playing with the suspension can help if you get it right..... Try starting with upping the stabilizers to 5 each, camber at least 2.5 and 1.5 front/rear respectively, then work on the spring rates from there.

I found the HKS s15 impossible to drift at first, but with a power up (phat turbo) it was allright, but still easier in my road s15, but when i was actually racing it for fun one day, I decided to put on traction control (just to level 1) so I wouldn't just sit there and spin wheels and it drifted every corner perfectly. Give it a go, just remember, big turbo, no assistance except for TC on level 1. Works a charm ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
    • What Duncan said sounds right. Also, it looks like they only have the driver's mat. Not the rest. Because looking at the diagram: KG4911 is just the mat for the driver. KG4900 is the full set if I'm not mistaken and discontinued.   But, it looks like they may still have the full set for the manual S2. Might be worth checking for the other models as well as they seem slightly different. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/misc/G49 Man, I'm tempted.
    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
×
×
  • Create New...