Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had platnum's in the car, when i ran 14psi through an rb25 turbo i found that it would blow out the spark. So i got some copper plugs at 0.8mm gap and it works a charm. You could spend big bickies on the iridiums and platnums but the coppers work well for me and cost be $17 for all 6.

i use the spitfire Vs' in both my cars, one turbo one N/A, they have platinum tips with a V pattern. in the rb20 i run 10psi on a standard turbo but soon i'll see how they go with a rb25 turbo at 14psi.... about $13 each as well.

Very interesting sky30. Im using the bcpr6es at the moment, with a 0.6 gap and its still missfiring badly (19-20psi, 300rwhp). Going to check the coil packs but wouldnt mind trying the bcp6es if that fixed the problem in yours. Would you mind passing on any more details on your setup ?

Thanks

So what does the 'S" designate? I had the BCPR6ES and also had misfire problems and then they were changed for BCP6E which stopped the misfire.

I asked about the R which I was told was a resistor to stop interference from stereos or something but dont know what the S stands for. I double checked and they are definatelty BCP6E.

DCIEVE:- I would try the BCP6ES non resistor plugs before anything else, i gap mine at .7mm for 20 PSI in my R32 making 306rwKW, no misfiring.

BCP6ES are just standard RB30/VL ones.. they are like $10 a packet.. lol

Don't you need the resistor type as to not interefere with the other engine electrics? that is what I was told anyhow. Not sure if its correct or not?

I use BCPR6ES-8 for normal use, maybe BCPR7ES-8 for sustained high speed or track use;

B: Indicates 14mm thread diameter in the cylinder head.

C: Hex size 5/8"

P: Projected insulator type

R: Resistor type

1-9: Indicates temperature (1 Hottest - 9 coldest)

E: Indicates 19mm thread reach (approx 3/4")

S: Standard (copper) 2.6mmø center electrode

-8: Gap 0.8mm (0.032")

If you can't get -8 then you will have to adjust the gap to 0.8 mm before you fit the plugs.;)

Sk what is your opinion on the non resistor typre plugs preventing missfire?

SKY30, what motor is in your 32?

Going to swap the plugs (again) for the non resistor type tomorrow.  Will let ya's know if works

The ceramic resister (usually ~5K ohms) is there to suppress the electronic interference from the ignition during sparking. Crackle n the stereo is the most obvious result, although I have seen the ECU and instruments interfered with by the noise generated from using non resistor plugs in a car designed for resistor plugs.

From the NGK tech journal

"NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics.

They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer.

In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion."

The botttom line, I would never use non resistor spark plugs in my Skyline:cheers:

  • 1 month later...

ok i dont know what to go on but what would be the best for my rb20det, it will be running 19psi, has high flowed turbs, hks front mount, 3.5inch exhaust, cai, bosch 040, gtr injectors, splitfire coilpacks, tomei poncams.

i want to know what are the best ones not value for money

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...