Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a dilemma, if this is in the wrong section, mods please move it.

My diff in my car makes clunking noises, but only when turning and moving very slowly, i.e. car park, but only when i accelerate, is this a mech LSD or locked diff?

David

Id say mech diff man, prob 2way especially if you have a cefiro. If its really bad try chaning the oil, helped mine a bit.

A locker would be constantly locked, so your tyres would just chirp going round corners slow, which with effort you should be able to get yours to do.

My diff makes a similiar noise to urs as well...its been like that since i bought the car, changed the diff oil once made no difference. So you guys say it is a Mechanical Diff? Whats the diff in the R33 s1 from the factory? not Mech i take it.

How do you know its 1.5 or 2 way diff?

2-way mech diffs will chirp on corners unless clutch is in. (as soon as u put foot on clutch, it will un-lock)

fully locked diffs ie spooled/welded will chirp always regardless. Trust me, you'll know if it's a fully locked....

factory diff is a viscous lsd, which will only lock under decent load.. and depending on how worn it is, only locks some of the time...

for a good article on diff's goto http://www.garage-13.com/difftech.html

if it's a 1.5 way, it will only half-lock on deceleration. hard to tell unless you drift it. only other way is to take out the centre and look at the shape of the plates.

2-way mech diffs will chirp on corners unless clutch is in. (as soon as u put foot on clutch, it will un-lock)

That's what happens with my car. I thought it was a mech-2way because when I clutch it it rolls better in tight corners. But when I had my car up on lift I spun one of the rear wheels & the other wheel spun in the same direction making me realise it's locked.

ok so when i imported my car it came with a locked diff (and is still in there) i only notice it when im cornering at all and clutching does not affect it. Not 100% sure what type it is but will find out asap (as i want to know) what are the advantages and disadvantages of a locked diff for daily driving???

ok so when i imported my car it came with a locked diff (and is still in there) i only notice it when im cornering at all and clutching does not affect it.  Not 100% sure what type  it is but will find out asap (as i want to know) what are the advantages and disadvantages of a locked diff for daily driving???

I questioned keeping my locked diff hey, was considering pissing it off but end up thinking the advantages are better than the disadvantages.

Advantages:

1. Always 50/50 power to the rear wheels, great for straight line dragging.

2. IF you like drift it's awesome for drift, much easier to get the tail out & keep it out.

Disadvantages:

1. Dangerous in wet, have to be VERY gentle on throttle when turning. I was changing lanes around a light corner in 2nd in the wet gently accelerating & the whole tail bloody kicked out in a flash, lucky the room I corrected in had no cars next to me...

2. Bad cornering in general, tail still wants to slip out if you're pushing it.

3. Tight turning can be annoying but its not that bad, the bad cornering disadvantage is the worst not being able to really push the car as hard as it could be cornering.

I questioned keeping my locked diff hey, was considering pissing it off but end up thinking the advantages are better than the disadvantages.

Advantages:

1.  Always 50/50 power to the rear wheels, great for straight line dragging.

2. IF you like drift it's awesome for drift, much easier to get the tail out & keep it out.

Disadvantages:

1.  Dangerous in wet, have to be VERY gentle on throttle when turning. I was changing lanes around a light corner in 2nd in the wet gently accelerating & the whole tail bloody kicked out in a flash, lucky the room I corrected in had no cars next to me...

2.  Bad cornering in general, tail still wants to slip out if you're pushing it.

3.  Tight turning can be annoying but its not that bad, the bad cornering disadvantage is the worst not being able to really push the car as hard as it could be cornering.

yeah im still undecided as its a daily driver and get some very funny looks from people when slow driving in the middle of town and i dont really like the idea of my tyres skipping all the time when turning slow corners wearing them out even faster than normal!!!

yeah im still undecided as its a daily driver and get some very funny looks from people when slow driving in the middle of town and i dont really like the idea of my tyres skipping all the time when turning slow corners wearing them out even faster than normal!!!

A good 1-way LSD not too tight but not too loose, just right 'like the cereal :bonk:' would probably be your best bet. You'll get best possible cornering & 50/50 power when enough torque is being thrown at it. I’d love one of these diffs but I don’t mind a bit of drift every now and again 'as my signature gif may suggest' so I’ll just keep my locker.

Hi All,

Seeing as we are talking about diffs i was hoping to get some thoughts on a situation i have with the diff in my 32 gtr. I only picked the car up recently and the diff seems to be fully locked no matter what the conditions. Real annoying. Ive changed the oil and it made no difference. So my thoughts are that its either stuffed or been intentionally locked.

I dont know a whole lot about diffs, but i would have thought if it was "stuffed" that it would simply loose its LSD effect rather than have it permanently lock up, so i doubt this is the problem. However i also cant understand why someone would want to put a fully locked diff into a STOCK gtr.

Any thoughts/feedback would be much appreciated.

Hi All,

Seeing as we are talking about diffs i was hoping to get some thoughts on a situation i have with the diff in my 32 gtr. I only picked the car up recently and the diff seems to be fully locked no matter what the conditions. Real annoying. Ive changed the oil and it made no difference. So my thoughts are that its either stuffed or been intentionally locked.  

I dont know a whole lot about diffs, but i would have thought if it was "stuffed" that it would simply loose its LSD effect rather than have it permanently lock up, so i doubt this is the problem. However i also cant understand why someone would want to put a fully locked diff into a STOCK gtr.  

Any thoughts/feedback would be much appreciated.

hey,

sounds interesting.. does it skip around corners? and your right LSD's usually from my experience stop working as they wear.. like one of mine has.. but it could depend on what sort of lsd unit it is.. ill check with some sources i have and post another reply tomorrow... if you want to i can look at it depending on what i come up with.. talk soon..

Hi All,

Seeing as we are talking about diffs i was hoping to get some thoughts on a situation i have with the diff in my 32 gtr. I only picked the car up recently and the diff seems to be fully locked no matter what the conditions. Real annoying. Ive changed the oil and it made no difference. So my thoughts are that its either stuffed or been intentionally locked.  

I dont know a whole lot about diffs, but i would have thought if it was "stuffed" that it would simply loose its LSD effect rather than have it permanently lock up, so i doubt this is the problem. However i also cant understand why someone would want to put a fully locked diff into a STOCK gtr.  

Any thoughts/feedback would be much appreciated.

hi again..

i found out some info today.. unless yours is minispool in which case there isnt much you can do about it (besides buy an lsd unit).. heres what i can tell you

aparently the gtr's came out with five different LSD units.. viscous, mechanical and clutches are probably the most common.. clutch lsd centres if they fail they act as an open wheeler only spinning one wheel... viscous lsd centres can go either way, wither lock or open depends on what fails (i would have thought more often open wheeler) and finally mechanical ( which i think yours possibly would be) which will lock when stuffed usually.. if your experiencing under steer and skipping around corners (possibly not all the time) then id say this is what you have and its stuffed..

whatever you do dont just rip the diff out and chuck it.. people will pay top dollar for mechanical lsd units (stuffed or not) because they are hard to find.. you'd want to rebuild yours if possible.. hope it helps... let me know how you go

john

Hi,

I have a dilemma, if this is in the wrong section, mods please move it.

My diff in my car makes clunking noises, but only when turning and moving very slowly, i.e. car park, but only when i accelerate, is this a mech LSD or locked diff?

David

hey mechanical lsd units that are stuffed clunk around corners when moving slow

hi again..  

i found out some info today.. unless yours is minispool in which case there isnt much you can do about it (besides buy an lsd unit).. heres what i can tell you

aparently the gtr's came out with five different LSD units.. viscous, mechanical and clutches are probably the most common.. clutch lsd centres if they fail they act as an open wheeler only spinning one wheel... viscous lsd centres can go either way, wither lock or open depends on what fails (i would have thought more often open wheeler) and finally mechanical ( which i think yours possibly would be) which will lock when stuffed usually.. if your experiencing under steer and skipping around corners (possibly not all the time) then id say this is what you have and its stuffed..

whatever you do dont just rip the diff out and chuck it.. people will pay top dollar for mechanical lsd units (stuffed or not) because they are hard to find.. you'd want to rebuild yours if possible..  hope it helps... let me know how you go

john

Hey thanks for the info. It should be taken out this coming week so ill let you know what the outcome is. Im not sure what im gonna do to fix the problem as yet... But ill let you know what the problem is and may be bounce some ideas off ya.

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...