Jump to content
SAU Community

pod or air box?

Greg Barwick
 Share

Recommended Posts

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Just got my FMIC installed today... good work all round for a DIY job (will post up in thread and blog later on). The bad news is that the factory snorkel for the R34 is no longer usable since the IC piping is in the way.

What next? Looks like I'll have to fabricate a new snorkel somewhere or go for the pod. I really don't feel like going for the Pod atm since it's "illegal" and it's going to cost me a fair bit to get it all right (pod, CAI, etc.).

elbee111 Proficient

elbee111

Posted
Posted
Just got my FMIC installed today...  good work all round for a DIY job (will post up in thread and blog later on).  The bad news is that the factory snorkel for the R34 is no longer usable since the IC piping is in the way. 

What next?  Looks like I'll have to fabricate a new snorkel somewhere or go for the pod.  I really don't feel like going for the Pod atm since it's "illegal" and it's going to cost me a fair bit to get it all right (pod, CAI, etc.).

I like this. A mate of mine did the plastic welding for me.

This is on R33 GTSt

El Bee

post-1570-1126351471.jpg

post-1570-1126351513.jpg

elbee111 Proficient

elbee111

Posted
Posted

I used a grinder to cut the shape around the piping, then my mate cut a section of this thick plastic that we use in our line of work.

He warmed it to get the bend and then "plastic welded" the new section to the air intake. The plastic welding consists of using a pencil type torch and melding the two plastics together.

It looks pretty good. The rough sections you can see are where I had a go and fixed some small pin-holes that he left after filing it nice and smooth.

El Bee

post-1570-1126352679.jpg

post-1570-1126352770.jpg

post-1570-1126352794.jpg

elbee111 Proficient

elbee111

Posted
Posted
FARKIN that's MAD!!!  Thanks El Bee.... you've now solved my problem :rofl:  Time to start fabricatin'

Thanks for that, most helpful :blink:

No worries. Good luck with it.

It looks like it was made that way eh?

When you open the bonnet it looks quite standard.

I found the piping was scarily close to the fan blades and so went with a 16 inch thermo rather than trim the blades.

All the best.

El Bee

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Hey El Bee

After being inspired by your photos last night, I hit my stock snorkel with the angle grinder today :huh: The results were quite good considering my first real attempt at plastic modification.

I haven't had time to do the plastic welding yet, will have to fabricate some pieces, so I just used so heat proof tape for the time being. Looks kinda the same as yours, but ultimately I hope it to look just as "factory" as your creation.

Cheers for the idea; tell me what you think!!!

p91117173uq.th.jpg p91117180sb.th.jpg

Thanks

Stan

  • 4 weeks later...
SKY 34 Mentor

SKY 34

Posted
Posted

I read in some mags that pod filters are useless....well they are there for the looks and the sound sound like the car is alive, breathing...I like that effect....I replaced my factory filter with HKS green mushroom and ...no difference in perfomance......

while more air is sucked in by the pod filter...those air are warm, unshielded from the engine bay... warm air has lesser density, lesser Oxygen for combustion...in effect mushroom = factory...

I discussed adding heat shield around the filter with the mechanics...there are some carbon fibre ones available...but if you think abt it, the air is still from the engine bay only less hot and heat shield would restrict the air flow....end up with warm air and lesser volume sucked into the filter, even worse effect....

standard is the best I guess...I switch only because I want my car alive!! lol

**JaR** Grand Master

**JaR**

Posted
Posted
I read in some mags that pod filters are useless....well they are there for the looks and the sound sound like the car is alive, breathing...I like that effect....I replaced my factory filter with HKS green mushroom and ...no difference in perfomance......

:D i do believe your an idiot......

i've got the same pod filter, and like dezz said.... you can feel a sharper throttle response with it there....

elbee111 Proficient

elbee111

Posted
Posted
Hey El Bee

After being inspired by your photos last night, I hit my stock snorkel with the angle grinder today :D  The results were quite good considering my first real attempt at plastic modification. 

I haven't had time to do the plastic welding yet, will have to fabricate some pieces, so I just used so heat proof tape for the time being.  Looks kinda the same as yours, but ultimately I hope it to look just as "factory" as your creation.

Cheers for the idea; tell me what you think!!!

p91117173uq.th.jpg p91117180sb.th.jpg

Thanks

Stan

Hey Stan, just noticed your post.

Yes, I did the same thing (2 stage process). I first ground the section away and as a temporary measure I fashioned some thick cardboard to cover and wrapped it around with duct tape.

This was until I could get the car and my mate and the plastic all in the same place.

Glad you like it.

El Bee

  • 2 weeks later...
performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
Posted
I like this. A mate of mine did the plastic welding for me.

This is on R33 GTSt

El Bee

Thats an excellent idea.

I replaced my airbox with a pod a CAI then I got a Hybrid FMIC kit & I couldnt fit the snorkel due to the piping, but this idea should fix that problem.

Before FMIC

020105%20fsc%20bbq%20008b.JPG

After FMIC

110305%20011.jpg

Looks like Im getting myself a new grinder :D

Big Rizza Mentor

Big Rizza

Posted
Posted

I have a pod filter on my R32, but had to remove it to pass the pits. It passed initial inspection because the bracket holding it in place was sufficient to stop it moving around, but apparently there was too much induction noise so it failed first time (the guy was an absolute tosser btw). So I borrowed a factory airbox to get it past the pits. The drive to the pits revealed no big differences between the two as far as performance (my car has a cat-back but is otherwise stock btw). The biggest difference was the change in noise - the factory box is much quieter. I think for unmodified and lightly modified cars, the pod filter has a bit of a placebo effect - you just think you are going faster.

I am considering swapping to the factory box on a full time basis to kill some of the induction noise.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

I've been driving the car for 4 months now; the panel filter was one of the first things I did to the car... as mentioned, the performance to be had from a hi-flow panel filter is very good - i think people would only vouch for them if they worked!

During my last dyno tune, we did an experiment with the cover from the air box off (to simulate what a pod would do). The outcome was 5 more rwkw, but think about this... we had a fan aimed straight at the intake, the bonnet was up and it was a "test" environment - there is no way you'll get those conditions on the road.

Keep it legal, keep the air box :D

And for those who just want induction noise, install a FMIC and your car will come alive.

gR33ddy, where did you get your CAI box from... was it from maxx? He still hasn't replied anyone so I just gave up. The only reason I want one is for RICEY goodness under the bonnet!

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
Posted
gR33ddy, where did you get your CAI box from... was it from maxx?  He still hasn't replied anyone so I just gave up.  The only reason I want one is for RICEY goodness under the bonnet!

Yep, got it from Maxx.

Hes on NS.com more than SAU. maybe try him there.

:D

CNR33 Community Regular

CNR33

Posted
Posted
so can you have a panel filter and a front mount in vic?

A hi-flow panel filter in a stock air box with an FMIC is fine, you're only allowed one aftermarket intake mod, so that'd be your best course of action. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...