Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

too true, but that is a factory nissan manifold. it's the one gary was talking about that came on the few HR31 GTS-Rs that were built. it's a good point though with a single turbo set-up manifold design is freed up a lot. but if you are keeping the GTR twins then a extrusion honed and match ported factory manifold is the way to go. main reason I think is that the stainless ones are 1. expensive and 2. introduce a lot more heat into the engine bay which is not nice.

John, when I upgrade the turbos on the GTR if I stick with the twins you can whack the goo honed manifolds on.

Goo honed I like that. Go the goo. Also I thought the GRS-R stock manifolds are cast?

Those ones on the RACE car in pic are not cast and not standard, I would remember if they were like that. Maybe I need another V.

maybe you are right and I need another beer? :confused:

I was sure that manifold came on the publically available HR31 GTS-Rs? hmmm I have been know to spin a bit of shit before. perhaps they were limited to the race cars. would make sense as it doesn't really look like a production version...

hmm well you have now convinced me that I'm wrong. I'm sure that's the one gary meant though, the old bunch-o'-bannanas.

Hey I tried a search but i'm obviously not as good as you...:D

that is a fair excuse I suppose. not many people are.

as for more pics, all I did was typre in "HR31 GTS-R" into google and on one of those pages is a few pics. the car belongs to terry ashwood so I guess you could search for his name too and that would yield some results.

Personally I prefer the factory exhaust manifold, the best I have seen on an RB20/25DET was the factory Group A R31GTSR.  Now that's an exhaust manifold, all thick walled, equal volume, steel pipe that it is.

That's great if you have an RB20/25, but what about RB26 options (sorry, I'm feeling selfish today :D)

Extruded honing ... is effective when the component being honed is the weak link in the chain, but it is waste of time and money when there are other components negating the benefits (because they are the weak link in the chain).

When do the stock RB26 lowmount manifolds, in your estimation, become "the weak link"?

... the GTSR Group A exhaust manifold barely flows any more than the standard RB20DET exhaust manifold, but they make 25 rwkw extra. Why? Because of the extractor effect of the equal length primary pipes.

Given the above I would assume that when the lowmounts do become the weak link you would advocate for an equal length solution (assuming one fits in a road car engine bay) over extrude honing the stock manifolds?

Lucien.

The reason the GTSR exhaust manifolds work is because they are tuned length. At their tuned rpm they extract (accelerate) the exhaust gas flow into the turbine. The pulse from one cylinder travels down the pipe and as it passes the collector it creates a partial vacuum for the next cylinder to fire into.

I am sure if I thought about it long enough I could design the right length exhaust manifolds (two) for a GTR. All it would need is the firing order and the rpm. The volume of the pipe (length and/or diameter) determines the time (at the target rpm). The firing order is the tricky bit, 1-5-3-6-2-4. So it would need a long pipe from 1 and 3 and a short pipe from 2. And a long pipe from 4 and 6 and a short pipe from 5. Sounds just like the design of the standard GTR manifolds doesn't it?:D

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

We have a gcg ss manifold on the race car. It has been through 6 race meets and its cracked to the shithouse, I havent checked the primary runners wall thickness but everything was gusseted and welded pretty nice. Im a boily by trade so im pretty knowledgable on fab stuff. Now its cracked through the welds and around the haz around some of the welds and gussets. The welds had good penetration were the right colour and were several layers thick. Overall i was fairly impressed with the manifold in its construction. The biggest thing which everyone so far has seemed to miss is that stainless once its gone through alot of heat cycles goes brittle. Thats its biggest weakness. You can tell when ss has gone brittle when the colour of it goes dull grey, especially around the welds, a good weld should have a nice array of rainbow colours through it. If your manifold has grey/dark grey welds around it they are too hot and have compromised its grain sructure. Obviously after many shocks and vibrations and sudden jolts the brittle areas will crack as can be witnessed on our race car manifold.

I believe the ss manifolds do radiate more heat into the engine bay as ss absorbs alot of heat also and holds it extremely well. Our engine p.s loom is testament to that, melted wires everywhere, we didnt have that problem with the cast manifold with no shields on either. Weve gone through 2 silicone oil return hoses because of the radiating heat from the manifold, weve just changed everything over to teflon lined ss sheathed lines because of the massive heat issues were having.

Obviously on a race car the conditions are exaggerated immensely in comparison to a road car. Another boily i work with spent his time doing truck and car exhausts, and hes told me that on your average falcadoore you get about 3-4 years before the headers start to crack around the welds. Same problem different conditions, but nonetheless it still happens.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...