Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done the search thing and it seems to me that the HKS2835pros is the turbo upgrade for me. I am looking to make around 250RWKW and I have all the usual bolt on mods to do it except a turbo, Z32 & fuel pressure regulator.

I dont want too much lag, but a bit is acceptable. I like the HKS2835pros because I can go for more power in the future if I wont. The only problem is the price $$$$ they are about $4000 for the kit.

My question is, do Garrett make a turbo with similar specs that will bolt directly to a rb25det like the HKS2835pros does. Maybe the popular "disco potato (GT2835rs)", but I think its the wrong flange type...

Any other Garrett suggestions????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77263-hks-gt2835-pro-s-seems-the-go-but/
Share on other sites

I thought the "Disco Potato" is more like a parallel of the GT2530 in terms of general performance/air flow? If I wanted GT2835-type performance from a Garrett turbo, I'd probably go a GT3071R. You can get one of those in T3 flange, but need to sort out the wastegate control additionally.

I was thinking about the GT-RS, but you cant push it over much over 250 at the wheels on an rb25det & I would like something that can handle more just in case I get sick of 250 :D.

I currently have 210 and that got old real fast ...

But i guess if it is a lot cheaper then maybe I will have to considder it... and deal with 250 for the long haul.

Yes its a great turbo if u can get it jsut put one in on my vehicle very impressed. Nice kit too.

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/252

Are you talking about the HKS GT2835 pro s? If so how much did it cost & what power are you getting out of it.

Grepin managed to squeeze a shade over 300rwkw (from memory) out of his HKS 2835ProS.

The trick was apparently a set of nice big cams, prior to that 280rwkw was around its limit, boost drops off. With the cams boost still drops off but obviously as a result of cams the same boost level is flowing more air. More air = more power. ;)

From memory the 2835ProS was around 2.6-3k if you import it from japland.

On the RB25 I don't think anything would match it for response and outright power.

with gt garretts under 2k youd be crazy to pay 4k for a hks unit

Depends on the power level. Why over turbo the car?

Very much like over clutching or over gearing.

A lot like the 3ltr with the stock R32 gearing. It sucks, way to short.

I'm getting my self a S13 3.9:1 before any more money is spent on big turbo's etc. What I would give to have a longer first and second gear so I can actually use the torque of the motor.

For up to and slightly over 300rwkw you can save a few $$ by grabbing a HKS 2835ProS or 3037ProS unit from japan for just under 3k imported. It bolts directly on to the manifold.

Buy a garrett item and your paying 2000 for the turbo + exh. manifold 1000 + ext. wastegate 700. 1000 for an exh. manifold.. Cheapest 'decent good quality' exh. manifolds I know of are around 1500.

$1000 or slightly less is for a cast HKS item which by all means is a very good manifold.

I wouldn't pay 4k for a hks item. Buy from nengun or greenline for under 3k.

GT28RS has the T28 flange . A good option could be the Garrett GT3071R with the .68 or .87 ARR HKS T3 flanged GT30 exhaust housing sold separately . Brett at GCG says he can get them as I'm sure others can . Going this way gets you very little exhaust restriction and an efficient turbocharger . Avoid the GT3071R "wastegated " its really a GT2835R with a T28 flange .

Of interest here's some pics of a 2835 pro s from sly33.

After a lot of thinking I've decided to go this turbo - just getting quotes from nengun and greenline.

sly33's getting 266rwkw@ 19psi, no cams just bolt it on.

Hell on a cold night that must be 270..

I think he said he could get more but they didn't want to push it.

266 rwkw must be pretty exciting in rear wheel drive....!

Only problem I can see with the 2835 is the exhaust housing is different - you'd have to get the kit with dump or make one yourself.

I don't think I'd like to go much bigger on the standard manifold - the engine pic here shows that there's not much room left with the 2835.

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...