Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm thinking of buying an '95 R33 GTS-T, and have put a deposit down for one.

The car drives great but there is one problem.

There is a knocking sound coming from the rear of the car, like a dull thud that occurs regularly, like once or twice every 5 seconds or so.

The owner said that it could be the shocks that need changing but I want a second opinion. He also said it might be the muffler hitting the chassis...

I've asked around and my friend said it could be the diff, but we are not mechanically mined so I just dont know. Is this a common thing with GTS-Ts?

If it is the diff, how much is it to repair/replace? Is it the shocks? or the Rear wheel steering problem, since this car steers at the rear too. Could it be the transmission??

Please help, I dont want to fork out the rest of the money until I get your opionions/theories!

Thanks!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77454-knocking-noise-in-the-boot/
Share on other sites

Admittedly no.. does make sense doesnt it

I will see if the owner will let me take it to a mechanic before i pick it up.

He claims though that he's had it all checked underneath and he doesnt know what it is but he guesses shocks

I was just wondering if this was a common thing for a '95 model

Too late,

I bought it, its in my driveway as I type :)

Its a Nismo kitted virgin white '95 R33GTST series 1

It still made the knocking sound on the way home. I know i'm stupid for not getting it checked out but dayem, its in such great shape inside and out, you could mistake it for being brand new right out of a dealers. Not bad for a 10yo car.

Tomorrow I'll check the battery, the jacks and and while its getting it oil changed I'll get the mechanic to inspect the shocks/bushes and joints.

On another thing, the power on this thing is phenomenal, and its a nearly stock except for the bodykit, exhaust and filter. It was wet tonight so when I gave it some gas in third gear, the next thing i knew the rear wheels broke loose and i ended up in the lane next to me and not knowing how i got there. Luckily no cars were there.

Mind you my last car was a eunos 30X so I will have to completely change my driving style.

I'm happy to call this forum my new home so I look forward to posting and reading here from now on!

A friend of mine who inspected it when i got home said its most likely the exhaust and its quite common for lowered cars to make knocking sounds. I'll just have to take his word for it until a mechanical inspection.

I can live with the knocking sound, its not that loud anyway its just a small annoyance, easily drowned out by the turbo whislte, induction noise and exhaust. I love it all, it has character.

You might find this amusing but I drove home with the side mirrors folded. I didnt realise until the halfway point, and had no idea to flap them out lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...