Jump to content
SAU Community

Cam Gear & Dyno Tuning Results @ Croydon Racing Development


Recommended Posts

I am extremely happy, it drives like a standard GTR @ 60kmh in 5th gear (1300rpm)

2nd gear breaks traction at all 4’s on shear acceleration J

Please refer to attached graph, this is my 4 wheel dyno tune figure by CRD on the 20th June (my birthday)…

THE CAM GEAR DEBACLE…now proven!

I was there from start to finish & saw the comparable difference.

The red line (on the graph) is tuned with cam gears at 0 degrees

The blue line (on the graph) is with tuned cam gears - keep in mind I do have the poncams…what a difference!

Jim has made an additional 100Nm without sacrificing top end delivery…

This proves that adjustable cam gears do make the difference & that Jims dyno tune has made a massive difference in torque!

Only the experienced guru’s of the industry are aware of this advantage.

I also had a long discussion about road tuning with Jim – he is of the opinion that you cannot simulate ‘load tuning’

i.e. load tuning at various rpm’s for a specified time period, where can you do this on the road & how can you road tune a car under load?

At the end of the day Jim has 15 years experience with GTR tuning & the experience alone is working with all facets such as drag, targa, circuit, national teams, race production class etc….who else in Australia works alongside with top tuners in Japan & national racing teams? I guess this is why he is the busiest workshop in Australia, just have a look at the number of performance cars he has in his workshop & yard (over 30 cars).

YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET – yes other tuners are cheaper but you will not reach the maximum potential if cam gears are not adjusted to suit the setup.

The way I see it, if you are prepared to spend over 10k on an engine then investing another $400 additional for a proper tune is the way to go…

Question: would you pay the small difference in tuning for an extra 100Nm of torque?

I am not here to convince you or sell CRD but I did want to share my experience with you as I am extremely happy with the outcome.

Thank you Jim ;)

Regards,

Marko

0404 884 876

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah, I was curious about that too. my guess is boost controll. certainly a very nice number. Very sharp curve. BIG fat top end, but the bottom end seems a little dissapointing to me. I would personally like more 'area under the cruve', but i don't think that's a reflection on CRD more a turbo choice thing. Do you have a graph with Y axis in RPM instead of speed? if so could you post it up?

enjoy mate ;)

The way I see it, if you are prepared to spend over 10k on an engine then investing another $400 additional for a proper tune is the way to go…

Agreed, but you'd be a miracle worker to get Jim to tune a GTR for $400.

$500 is what he normally charges just to dial-in cam gears, let alone TUNE the GTR.

A basic GTR tune starts at $800 and rapidly increases from there.

I have never stepped foot in that workshop without being slapped with a bill LESS than $1000.

Agreed, but you'd be a miracle worker to get Jim to tune a GTR for $400.

$500 is what he normally charges just to dial-in cam gears, let alone TUNE the GTR.  

A basic GTR tune starts at $800 and rapidly increases from there.

I have never stepped foot in that workshop without being slapped with a bill LESS than $1000.

I spoke to them today they said $350-750 for a full tune :) who knows but..

Doing a power run on Saterday morning to see what this biatch is making :Pimp2:

Merli,

Im with blk180....he is saying that it is only an additional $400 or so in comparison to most tuners who charge anywhere b/w 500-700 etc...

Im in agreeance with you marko....fantatsic results...wow pretty impressive!!! Im amazed at the difference with the cam adjustment...thats worth the extra $$ to me!!

I spoke to them today they said $350-750 for a full tune  :) who knows but..

Doing a power run on Saterday morning to see what this biatch is making  :Pimp2:

I'll bet you $50 that he wants to change the oil, and spark plugs before tuning it.

And it seems the more power a GTR makes, the more he charges... Presumably because there's more liability and less room for error with highly-strung GTR engines.

Understandable I guess, but it gets old when you're told "$350-750" and then get slapped in the face with a $1500 bill.

Anyway, good luck, and you have to come to the next dinner and let me take it for a spin... I'm having major power withdrawls :P

P.S. Have you put on an oil cooler yet? :squint:

I'll bet you $50 that he wants to change the oil, and spark plugs before tuning it.

And it seems the more power a GTR makes, the more he charges... Presumably because there's more liability and less room for error with highly-strung GTR engines.  

Understandable I guess, but it gets old when you're told "$350-750" and then get slapped in the face with a $1500 bill.

Anyway, good luck, and you have to come to the next dinner and let me take it for a spin... I'm having major power withdrawls :)

P.S. Have you put on an oil cooler yet? :squint:

I'll come to this months dinner..

I was going to get an Oil cooler but after 4 new so3's + rego i have no bling bling left :P

I'll come to this months dinner..

I was going to get an Oil cooler but after 4 new so3's + rego i have no bling bling left :P

There was a fair amount of meat left on those tyres?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...