Jump to content
SAU Community

  

266 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I like one of the previous posts about the Turbo Timer

Go set it for 10 mins and lock the car.

Jump in and set to go!

Got me looking now for one.

Be worth the $120 to be able to have a nicely warmed motor.

Particularly after a night shift when I'm straight out the door and into city traffic and duckin' weavin'

No time for warm ups there!

u could do that or u could just get a remote engine starter like me and turn the car on from inside the house and let it idle for a bit

you only really need enough time for everything to be covered in oil. 30sec to a min should be plenty of time. Idling might help with lubing up the engine but the cat doesn't like it and will kill it faster.

Correct me if i am wrong but after everything is covered in oil the only problem is parts heating up (expanding) at differnt rates. So if you wait untill the water is up to temp then the whole block should be nice and warm due to the hot radiator fluid running through everywhere. So once your water temp is up you should be right to have some fun.

Aslong as you don't thrash it for the first few minutes it will be fine.

I usually back out of the garage, and close it (around 30secs) and then take off slowly until i get out of my suburb (3-4mins)

When i start my car however, the oil light stays on for about 2seconds then goes off.. is this normal??

The oil atm is sitting halfway inbetween L and H (on the dipstick)

Just drive straight off and don't boost or rev too much for the first 5 miuntes!!  

If you idle for longer thatn 20 seconds you are:

1. Wasting fuel

2. Increasing pollution

3. Wasting some of your life

4. NOT doing your car any favours.  

 

These are modern cars.  They are made to be driven straight off.

CASE CLOSED

My car won't move if I don't idle it for atleast 1-2mins. It just dies if you put the accel in.

My car is also not stock, so it wasn't "made" to be driven straight off it was made to make more power, handle better and stop better.

Does that mean I'm injuring it and I should try to make it be able to take off in around 20secs?

most oil lights weill stay on for a few seconds. AS long as it turns off and stays off then you should be fine. Aslong as you check you fluids regularly (AS WE ALL MUST) there will be no problem.

Thanks for clearing that up, i was starting to worry!!:P I check it 1-2times a month.

My car won't move if I don't idle it for atleast 1-2mins. It just dies if you put the accel in.

My car is also not stock, so it wasn't "made" to be driven straight off it was made to make more power, handle better and stop better.

Does that mean I'm injuring it and I should try to make it be able to take off in around 20secs?

Are you running an a/m ecu? Your car shouldn't really die if you put your foot down when it is cold.

If you have done any engine mods then warming it up at least a little bit would be a good idea. But the best way to warm up your car is to baby it on the streets.

idle for a minute or so, then take it easy till i see some decent temp, usually about 10 minutes or so. which sucks cause it only takes about 10.5 minutes to get to work!

Sounds like you need to find a longer way to work.

Have you guys had a lok in the car manual (if you got it) I have had a look through a few differnt cars manauals and they all say the best way to get the car up to temp is to drive it normally. They also say that excessive idling with kill your cat(if you have one).

idle for a minute or so, then take it easy till i see some decent temp, usually about 10 minutes or so. which sucks cause it only takes about 10.5 minutes to get to work!

Me too!!

I take a detour when going to work now though. It's still only takes about 15mins, use to take 10.

Yeah, I have a "startup routine" in the morning.

Get in the car and start it up. Then put the belt on, turn off the TCS, and adjust the stereo. Maybe clean out the centre console of the various bits of paper that gather in there.

When I see the revs drop from its "cold idle" 1500RPM and the oil pressure drops from 6kPa, I'll drive it at low RPM and load for a while. Luckily there's downhills away from my street, so I'll just select whatever gear keeps it at the speed limit without using the pedals for as long as I can.

Tend to warm it up atleast until the oil temp stabilises.. once it's there - i'm happy.. it's happy..

not good for any cars to just start up and thrash off, can cause a bit of damage - I think.. might be wrong though..

bit like stretching before going for a run eh! if you don't do it, you'll regret it.. if you do - everything is sweet..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...