Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Do i get a cookie  :Pimp2:

:cookie:

tommyk I don't see why not:

the highest peak was 253kw but we settled on the 247 as it made more midrange than the 253 setting.

dyno_graph_-_247vs221p.JPG

COOL

What mods do you have and was that run done in awd or rwd mode ?

You guys suck. You make me want to buy a pair of GT-SS's :D

as for mods mine is still stock turbos, stock cams, stock intercooler, stock dumps, stock front pipes. just 3 inch cat back system, apexi pods, cam gears, 14.5psi boost, and power FC. obviously have other unrelated stuff like oil cooler, twin plate clutch, OS gearset etc etc. the first graph showing 221kw was before the cam gear adjustment. in the process of adjusting the gears boost also rose by 2psi (without touching the controller) and the AFRs leaned off a bit (also without touching the PFC). so that may have influenced the gain a little too.

is that graph rwkw or awkw ?

Why do I ask ?

Ive got everything you have including 15psi boost, aftermarket front pipes, but i dont have the pods or gears

Sorry for the hijack kabab

sorry mate, it's in rwd. so outright power i would say it's pretty much the same between us (i don't know really) but the shape of the curve is what is most important to me at the moment, not the peak figure. :D

sorry mate, it's in rwd. so outright power i would say it's pretty much the same between us (i don't know really) but the shape of the curve is what is most important to me at the moment, not the peak figure. :D

I noticed when mine was on the dyno it was in full 4wd mode so i guess thats why your figure is much higher then Tommyk's..

What would the difference be between awd and rwd power wise?

to be honest i really don't know. i have heard lots of stories. some people say on a 32 GTR the difference is negligible (something about the way they divert torque to the front wheels on a dyno), other say about 30kws difference. personally i think there must be some difference but how much i wouldn't want to guess.

Suffice to say that, as always, a dyno is not the best dick measuring tool as everyone has a different ruler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...