Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i recently attempted to fount a front mount intercooler kit on my R33. Had no problems removing the standard intercooler but i am facing great difficulties cutting a hole in the chasis on the drivers side and trimming the reinforcement bar. Need the car urgently back on the road but not able to drive the car to a mechanic to get it fixed because the standard intercooler and the reinforcement bar have been removed!

Was wondering anyone out there could help me in cutting the hole in the chasis and trimming the reinforcement bar. Will pay some money. I am located in central brisbane.

Can contact me on 0432022070

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78561-could-someone-please-help-me/
Share on other sites

If I were you I'd call some mobile car stereo/immobiliser installers until you find one with the equipment to cut metal in their truck.

also I'd save you waiting around for some good samaratin on here.

The alternate solution is Cable ties and gaffer tape. Just tie and tape your car back together and drive it to the workshop.

Big drill, expensive hole saw bit, push hard...

Alternatively... Drill lots of small holes around the circumference of where you want the hole until you have yourself a big hole...

As for the reo bar, a grinder and cutting disk works wonders... Shouldn't cost you more than 30 bucks at Supercheap to get one... Just watch your fingers ;)

Either get a proper drill (none of this cordless shit).. and a hole cutter that fits onto the end of the drill. Again, a drill from bunnings will cost you $30 and even ok quality. The hole cutters are NOT expensive (bad strutto) for the cheap ass one.. about $15. You will probably destroy the blade, but just throw it out afterwards. Problem is that its probably not going to be wide enough diameter, so you may have to do two side by side.

Otherwise, Bunnings.. anglegrinder.. this is what I used no problems. Just draw up a "box" and cut 4 straight and neat lines. Anglegrinder is about $30 these days (nothing) and even not too bad quality.. thinner disc is about $2..Angle grinder is $30 entertainment in itself, shoots off all sorts of fireworks.. you'll be going "weeeee" the whole time..

nice effort cyrus.

go to a decent tool shop such as tradetools or glennfords and get a steel holesaw suitable for the size of your cooler pipe.

on a r33 you will have to remove your washer bottle obviously. use an electric drill to drill the hole, its advisable to use cutting oil or a holl drilling spray to save your new hole saw otherwise you will **** the teeth on it. also dont go too fast at it or again you will heat the metal up and screw the teeth on the holesaw.

cutting the rio use an angle grinder, make sure you actually hang onto it and dont test the sharpness of the blade on your fingers. be carefull using powertools, they can do nasty things in the wrong hands.

If I were you I'd call some mobile car stereo/immobiliser installers until you find one with the equipment to cut metal in their truck.

also I'd save you waiting around for some good samaratin on here.

The alternate solution is Cable ties and gaffer tape. Just tie and tape your car back together and drive it to the workshop.

The good samaratin has arrived!

Problem solvered. Just borrowed my dad's little compressor and used my air hacksaw from work. Drilled a pilot hole and worked my way around from there. Not too many hassles cept the hole is more square than round. You can't see it anyway so everyone ended up satisfied in the end.

masonry bit you may as well stand there with the hose and try and blast your way through.

you need a proper hole saw made for use with steel, or a steel drill bit, another option is use a drill bit to drill a small slot out then use a reciprocating saw to cut the hole out, be warned this isnt a pretty way to do it, it ends up pretty messy

Word of wise guys too, when using a grinder around your car cover the roof,bonnet/boot (depending on were u r working) & windscreen with sheets!!!!!!!! Trust me you don't want metal bits melted into your paint work & windscreen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...