Jump to content
SAU Community

car yards and car quality

chowetime

By chowetime,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

chowetime Enthusiast

chowetime

Posted
Posted

I am checking out a few things for a friend and came across a car yard in Perth Auto Japan - my question is has anyone bought cars from them and what sort of quality are they the main reason for asking is that there prices are quiet good and I am a firm believer you get what you pay for....

When I compared there prices to say John Hughes there seems to be a big difference in cost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78607-car-yards-and-car-quality/
Share on other sites
ossie_21 Grand Master

ossie_21

Posted
Posted

Tell them to check out Autoworx in Wangara, some very nice cars there & are pretty cheap at the moment too. With John Hughes, all of their cars are grade 4 I believe, they only have the top quality ones there.

Way too expensive though, I imported a car that probably would have been grade 4 for under 17k, and they sell slightly older cars than that for 6k more. Err, no thanks John ya twat.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted
I am checking out a few things for a friend and came across a car yard in Perth Auto Japan - my question is has anyone bought cars from them and what sort of quality are they the main reason for asking is that there prices are quiet good and I am a firm believer you get what you pay for....  

When I compared there prices to say John Hughes there seems to be a big difference in cost

John Hughes aside you get what you paid for at most dealers, if the dealer is a RAW you will always get a better price.

On any car over $10,000 ask for a auction report or get a RAC inspection on the car and especially the structural integrity as I see what come in at the docks and their can be a big difference.

SR32 Rising Star

SR32

Posted
Posted

I think auto japan and the place in leederville is overpriced, auto japan is just down the road and i check it out often. There's a couple of ca18 sils for over $10k, an 89 32 unlicenced for $12k.

If you want a 32 contact me :)

MLCrisis Proficient

MLCrisis

Posted
Posted

I bought my R33 from Down Under Autos on Oxford Street, Leederville, in Jan 2003. They were very good to deal with and gave me a good deal. I have continued to use them for service since and they have always looked after me. Both the guy at the yard and the guy at the service garage have always been happy to talk to me and answer my stupid questions. They are also quite prepared to recommend other places for work that they don't do. Of particular interest is that they are a licensed RAW and they are also an RAC registered dealer - which means that all of their cars get RAC checks and the RAC also checks out various aspects of their quality management.

I am sure there are other good ones around too, but I received good service from these guys and will definitely talk to them when I am looking for a replacement.

As for John Hughes, they were very slick salesman and had some nice cars. Their asking prices were high, but they were prepared to move. I reckon I could have got a reasonable deal off them, but they did not have a Series II when I was looking. Overal, I reckon they would have ended up about $2k - $3k higher. Whether you get any more for that difference is your own judgment.

Cheers. :P

Chris_R32GT Rookie

Chris_R32GT

Posted
Posted
I bought my R33 from Down Under Autos on Oxford Street, Leederville, in Jan 2003.  Both the guy at the yard and the guy at the service garage have always been happy to talk to me and answer my stupid questions. 

I am sure there are other good ones around too, but I received good service from these guys and will definitely talk to them when I am looking for a replacement.

Cheers.  :)

pfft thats when everything in the car u bought have no faults wats so ever, once something goes wrong (and get this, while still under warranty) the warranty covers and does f**k all!!! Thats the thing u gotta look out for with this place, their phucked up so call warranty. i.e. doesn't cover any leaks wats so ever let it be water or oil. :cuss:

but the guys at their service depot is alright like u said.

MLCrisis Proficient

MLCrisis

Posted
Posted
the warranty covers and does f**k all!!! Thats the thing u gotta look out for with this place, their phucked up so call warranty. i.e. doesn't cover any leaks wats so ever let it be water or oil.  :cuss:  

but the guys at their service depot is alright like u said.

Used car warranties never offer much protection, except against major mechanical failure. I am sure that you would have found the same with any used car yard. Persuading a customer who is convinced that they are covered, when in fact they are not, is a hard job. The measure of the yard is probably how well they deal with that and how prepared they are to give a little in the grey areas. But don't expect any used car yard to give away much - they are not reknowned for their charity work!

Cheers. :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...