Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rust is the one thing that will completely put me off buying a car. actually there are two things.

1. heavy accident damage (ie. bent chassis)

2. rust

basically anything else can be fixed fairly easily and if you are handy you can do it yourself.

bent chassis however will never be quite the same again and rust is like cancer.

Rust and moisture in the back end of the thing is a worry? The oil pressure thing isnt great, but an important bit of advice i can give you from beign screwed by 2 different car yards, negotiate a price based around you fixing the problems...as band aids are band aids and the problem will re-surface...and not even Consumer Affairs Tribunal can help you if they cover their tracks properly..

...a55holes , im gettign rev'd up again even though its 6 years down the track:(

yes, Troys advice is sound. don't get them to fix the problems. get them to take money off the price and fix them yourself (or pay someone else). they will just patch it up if you let the dealer fix it.

Yep, by the way I've seen things done by them so far I'm pretty certain in saying they would do the job but would by no means do the best possible job.

I'm pissed I lost my $200 deposit but I'm glad I didn't buy a $7000 car that would need another $3000 spent on it, then I could have just gone out and bought an excellent example for $10k.

The inspection was carried out by the guys at Brisbane Turbo & Tuning Center Woolloongabba.

I have serious issues with btt and wouldnt trust anything they do or say

on the off chance that they got lucky and were correct, id either get the dealer to fix the problems or preferably, take it some wher eelse for another inspection

i took my car to chapman and chapman for my inspection

then gave the list of (minor) things that needed fixing back to street machines and they did an awesome job making me happy!

Thats bullcrap you lost your $200 deposit.

You have every right to get that $200 back as the car was not in the best condition.

The motor with low oil pressure alone indicates stuffed bearings, it requires a rebuild.

Unless you didn't state you will buy the car only if it comes out ok from the inspection. It obviously didn't.

Even if you don't get the money back $200 is a small price to pay. If you were to get the car and then set to work fixing all the problems you would surely find alot more problems. My house mate got a rx3 and has set about rebuilding it. So far he has spent more times fixing issues that where not detectable untill he started fix the original issues.

Also rust is like cancer. It spreads, you can never be sure you got rid of all of it and it will kill your car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...