Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey.

I need some information about a Hicas boss kit for an R32 GTS-T.

I have read through the forum and understand i need a Hicas boss kit, and that the code is something like 115, not the 110 model.

Howerever when my mate at autobarn called autotechnica to order one they said the 115 was for an 300zx, so now i am confused as to which product to order ??

If anyone has recently or in the past ordered a Hicas boss kit for thier 32, and had no troubles, can u please let me know where u ordered it form and what was the model code ?

Anyone with any information to help me out would be greatly apreciated .

Thanks

Mark.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78831-r32-boss-kit-help-pls/
Share on other sites

the boss kit is the one on the steering column right? I'm pretty sure that autobarn should stock one for you - thats where i got mine from. Can't remember what brand it is, but i don't remember anything about there having to be a different kit for HICAS.

If its not for the steering column then plz disregard.

get them to look it up in the book... disregard the number u got somewhere else.

if that fails go to repco... mine came in 2 hours from another shop cause the one i went to didnt have it.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok.

I got a boss kit, it is a hkb boss kit, it was ordered from autotechnica and the code 110. I asked autotechnica to make sure this was the correct boss kit and was a hicas boss kit and they assuered us it was, so i ordered it, took off the stock steering wheel, fitted the boss kit.

After driving for a while, youl never gues what hapened, YES the hicas light came on.

Now just wondering if this is because of thhe incorect boss kit, or could we have done something wrong during instalation such as accidently adjust the sensor ? if so dose anybody know what we can check and where it is.

ANd if it is the wrong kit, they will be hearing about it lol.

Thanks.

Mark.

Probably an installation problem :D You need to make sure the wheel and boss are on perfectly straight otherwise HICAS thinks you a re driving in circles all the times and gives an error code.

Undo the wheel again, drive along about 20m in a straight line, then put the wheel back on. Should sort the problem.

Ok.

It was the wrong boss kit, which autotecnica constistanly claimed and still dose was the correct boss kit. it was an ON 110. This model was to be installed in the 2 and 8 oclock position, so when i installed this one the hicas sensor was moved.

I ordered a 115, which was to be instaleld in the 12 oclock 6 oclock position, Which is where the horn connection and hicas hole are on the stock wheel.

I have installed the new boss kit and now all is well, no hicas promblems (Crosses fingers).

And even after telling them about the stock wheel they sent out this kit but claimed it would be wrong.

So i hope this will help some ppl in the future as autotechnica didnt knwo what they were on about. Maybe it might fit some models of R32, but for a 1993 GTS-T with Hicas i needed the 115. If you thinkinhg of ordering a boss kit to save urself some hastle, take off the stck wheel and see what position the horn button and hicas hole are in.

On 110 - Installed at the 2 oclock 8 oclock posiiton.

On 115 - Installed at the 12 oclock 6 oclock position.

Pz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...