Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 316
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have just heard that the std VL turbo exhaust housing is almost identical to the VG30. T3 flange .63 a/r. I was told there was a slight differance, can't remember what, but would not effect the operation and mounting of the turbo. The flange on the dump pipe is different though, thus a custom dump whould be required.

Can someone in the know confirm/reject this theory, please?

Can the std VL housing be used, instead of the VG30?

Al, somebody said that to me too, but because the exhaust flange is different, it would make it a pain in the butt to get custom parts made up.

I can't confirm 100% though.

I have a guy who thinks he may have a couple for us though. VG30DET that is.

Great, I still would prefer the VG30det turbo exhaust housing.

But if i am unable to get one, i still have my 3.5" front pipe from my previous exhaust so all i need to do is get a dump pipe made up at my local exhaust shop, no big deal really :rofl:.

I picked mine up last night.. whahahah. :D

I managed to pick up a second handy one that apparently works (it feels and looks in good nick) for $300.

Thanks for not cutting my lunch Bass Junky. lol :(

I'm starting to doubt it is in fact a .81 or there abouts.

I've got a what was meant to be a .82 ARB GT35R machined housing. The GT35R housing is quite a bit bigger.

I'll have to find out how to measure the a/r and well... Measure it! ;)

Area to radius ratio is difficult to measure without sectioning (cutting up) the casting . These Hitachi housings never had the ARR size cast into them like Garrett's housings do . My impression looking at all three is RB20 type = miniscule

, RB25 type = small , VG30 type = huge . They really do have a lot of volute area inside them but remember they were designed to not choke a three litre V6 .

Cubes do you intent to run the complete VG30 turbo or some kind of bitza thing .

Cheers A .

Yeah, I agree with bass, for around the $2000 you get a turbo that puts you easily over the 250kw realistically and closer to 280. Is a bolt in situation, no modifications required for the fitting which is a big plus..And retains the stock look for any enquiring eyes. I know I was disappointed with my stock Hiflow struggling to get 240kw with the usual mods. I know for sure i was disappointed in my HKS cams, I thought they were a waste of money. But I think now with the VG30 Turbine housing the cams might be getting breathing space.  One last thought is that I feel i'm comming to the end of my quest for more power. SK's theory of 280kw max is good for me.  

Ian

what bolt on turbo can I get for 2k that makes 280rwkw ? and where can I get one ?

Bass Junky,

Are you sure they don't have any? I was in there only a few days ago and they had quite a few.

Your not confusing Option1 Garage with D1 Garage?

Discopotato,

I plan on initially running the as is VG30DET turbo, I'm keen to see how well it goes.

I know the RB20DET turbo makes 175rwkw on 9psi from 4400-4950rpm. Lets see how the vg30 differs. :)

I figure it should make 210rwkw on the dyno that I run on (rb25's make 190-200rwkw with rb25det turbo's and approx 11psi).

Should be interestering too see.

To be honest the exhaust a/r doesn't look much bigger than the rb20det turbo i'm running.

When I was up at D1 Garage I noticed there are 2 different types of rb20det turbo's, mine and a smaller looking one.

It has what looks like a smaller exhaust housing and a different designed compressor inlet, mine steps up to the compressor wheel where as the other smaller one has a smaller inlet steps down then steps back up to the compressor wheel.

This hi-flow sounds like the perfect upgrade here, and correct me if I am wrong in saying this but cant you get a Garrett GT3071r that has a T3 flange and a Option for a nissan .63 ar internally gated zuast housing capable of making 280 rwkw easy for about 1900-2100 dollars????

If I had to make a choice between a engineered turbo and a re-engineered turbo I know what I would go for...

Yes I know that its a RTA risk & you still have to run water & oil lines so add $250 and a heat shield.

I guess the following would be about right.

Turbo = free

High Flow = $1950 (max)

exhaust housing or busted turbo = $150

I assume the exhaust housing machining could be done when th turbo is high flowed so no additional price.

Total, $2100

I think

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...