Jump to content
SAU Community

  

90 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

the way to go is an alarm that you can disable the chirp. say by pressing button 2 the button 1. That way you can have the best of both worlds.

YEP thats the way i have mine set up. Best of both worlds so if your in the ghetto (jk) then u can warn everyone to back the f*#k away from your ride.

Get home at 4am and you dont want to "ALARM" any of your neighbours then its a slient arm :Pimp2:

the way to go is an alarm that you can disable the chirp. say by pressing button 2 the button 1. That way you can have the best of both worlds.

Yeah thats a good idea, but sometimes the second button doesnt register and it still chirps :mad: I got that on the pathfinder.

mines a total pain in the arse atm... the latex/rubber that the buttons are moulded onto is cracking and has lost it's strength... so chances are every time a bit of pressure (like a tiny bit) is put on the buttons while in your pocket, it arms or disarms. quite annoying when you're getting into the car with keys in hand, and the bloody thing arms

hey guys i got a mongoose alarm, pretty good, it chirps but u can arm it without cjirping by using the second button on the remote. there are two buttons, one for chirping and the other for silent arming!!!! so u get the best of both worlds LOL.

mine has both normal arm/disarm and silent. crap thing is, if say i unlock the car and dont open the door within 15 seconds, it re-arms with the chirp regardless of how i disarm it. i always forget that it does that!

hey guys i got a mongoose alarm, pretty good, it chirps but u can arm it without cjirping by using the second button on the remote. there are two buttons, one for chirping and the other for silent arming!!!! so u get the best of both worlds LOL.

Mine does exactly that. Love it. Very handy. Only problem. Once the engine is off and the doors/boot are closed, I have about 4-5 seconds to arm it before it chirps 3 times. Annoying when you're trying to sneak home. :chairshot

Took me a while to work this function out, thought I was just going crazy, but when i walk to the car, once I disarm the alarm, if I don't open the door within about 30seconds-1min, it rearms itself. Pain in the arse sometimes, but i guess its in case you knock the disarm button walking away.

hmm :confused: anyone else's do that?

Car alarm and immobiliser chrips each time I press the remote button *DUH*

Don't really mind it except for those times when you need to get in and out of your car and people around you just think you're nuts!

Also another thing is the immobiliser self arming, gets me every time as it takes about 15 secs no matter what you do/don't do. Other than that it's fine.... I'd like an option though~

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...