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PFC n Injectors with rebuild or after?

Suspense

By Suspense,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Suspense Proficient

Suspense

Posted
Posted

ATM my engine is out gettin rebuilt. it will be tuned to push out 240rwkw with a gcg hiflow.

Currently i have stock ECU and stock injectors.

I want to know would you recommend that i get the injectors and PFC in during the rebuild process, or after the moter has been run in? The later enabling the car to be revved up in the tuning process without damaging my new engine.

Thanx in Advance

StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

run it in with standard management on the smallest possible boost level you can (try disconnecting the wastegate so the flap is open all the time for example) for the first 500kms then fit the injectors and PFC, trim the fuel map by the relevant factor so you can drive it to the dyno. make sure you change the oil at 50km, then at 250 and maybe again at 500 just to be safe. castrol GTX (cheapest oil you can get) is pretty good for the first 5000km.

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted
run it in with standard management on the smallest possible boost level you can (try disconnecting the wastegate so the flap is open all the time for example) for the first 500kms then fit the injectors and PFC, trim the fuel map by the relevant factor so you can drive it to the dyno. make sure you change the oil at 50km, then at 250 and maybe again at 500 just to be safe. castrol GTX (cheapest oil you can get) is pretty good for the first 5000km.

If a motor is built correctly there is no need to baby it like this. You do need to bed in the rings etc but the engine shop should do this before you are given the car back.

I agree with the frequent oil changes, but I dont recall seeing Schumaker touring around the F1 track with a "please overtake - running in" sighn on the back of the car. (and those motors are tuned to the limit) Likewise Nissan dont insist on GTR's beeing run in on low boost, the car is ready to go from the moment you pick it up.

I am not advocating you thrash the engine, but babying it can also be bad in the long run.

Suspense Proficient

Suspense

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  • Author
Posted

first 50km my car will be on dyno, then i gonan drop the oil, drive for 500km drop the oil.

but boost level will be 10psi is, just keep it under 3000rpm... should be right.

just wanted to know about installing the pfc n injectors... looks like i will do it after the engine is run in....

StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

lol @ comparison with the cosworth formula 1 engines, not really relevant at all ;)

Suspense: latest ideas on running in road engines is to use bodgy low-grade non synthetic oil. to bed the rings in load it up in tall gears but don't rev the crap out of it. large run-in times are not required, maybe 50km and it should be ready to go. personally i would change the oil at 50, 250, 500, 1000 then every 5000 with synthetic of your choice. everyone has different ideas on oil change frequency during run-in but after seeing what came out in the first 2 oil changes on the last engine i saw run-in, i would be doing it as described above.

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted
lol @ comparison with the cosworth formula 1 engines, not really relevant at all ;)

Lets see, Pistons (check), Rings (check), Valves (check), internal combustion engine (check) - I'd say they are both the same. Admittedly the F1 engine is built to tighter tolerances but they are almost identical.

PS dont use ANY DODGY oil, use the good stuff. (non-synthetic of course). Pennzoil and others manufacture special oils for running in engines if you ask a good retailer they should be able to get it for you.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I've been told by quite a few people not to run it in with boost.

Chris Milton Engineering (Well known for their involvement in GroupA) and also my engine Builder Andrew.

I wired open my wastegate and drove everywhere with a flat foot changing up around 3000-3500rpm with the occasional 4000rpm.

Gear Deceleration is very bad for a motor that is being run in, simply drop it in neutral.

I used Penrite Running-In oil, I changed the oil multiple times within the first 1500km's then I went to a Motul Mineral 10w30 oil. I used that until the motor had done 10,000km's then went synthetic.

My reason for using mineral for 10,000km's is the motor wasn't ran in on a dyno.

I made sure the rings had bed in properly. :P

They have appeared to, even with the largest recommended bore to piston clearance Wiseco recommend, it uses ZERO oil over a 5000km' oil change, its now done 16,000km's.

There is zero blow by in to the intake piping. Everything is as clean as a whistle.

NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

i say do it all at once. its easier. a proper build will not need much engine run in time, 1000kms will be well and trully run in.

a proper tuner will be able to set the pfc up to a safe tune without even checking it. slight road tune or dyno tune will be able to get it to a safe level while running in.

then at 1000kms you can get it properly dyno tuned for the boost of your choice.

cheers

Linton.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Mine wasn't run in on the dyno, it also still had a little blow by at 1500km's. Having still a little blow by at 1500km's meant that it wasn't completely run in.

I extended my run-in to 10,000km's before synthetic oil as many manufactures recommend (Mainly in the US).

Now I have zero blow by. :)

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