Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When complied I guess the things get butchered, has anyone replaced them?

How?

The reason the Xenons are removed is that in some of the 34's they are 'Automatically' adjusted whilst driving. In other models they have a manual switch which can be adjusted by the driver. These are allowed. The auto ones are not.

Dave

Yeah thats what I mean, trying to find out how they were?

if there was transformers,ballasts,just bulbs? etc

I think most time they just change the HIDs with the sedan's non HID head lights.

But i have seen one where they open up the HIDs and take out the ballast and bulbs and replace with a normal driving light. BTW a proper compliance shop will distory all the HID things when compliancing. So to answer ur question, it prob be hard to find the original stuff in AUS. I think is cheaper if u just buy a new aftermarket HID kit and put in, is actually quite easy these days with the direct plug in type. ALSO the aftermarket ones is much much brighter then the stock ones.

I think most time they just change the HIDs with the sedan's non HID head lights.

But i have seen one where they open up the HIDs and take out the ballast and bulbs and replace with a normal driving light. BTW a proper compliance shop will distory all the HID things when compliancing. So to answer ur question, it prob be hard to find the original stuff in AUS. I think is cheaper if u just buy a new aftermarket HID kit and put in, is actually quite easy these days with the direct plug in type. ALSO the aftermarket ones is much much brighter then the stock ones.

I think the sedans have the same HIDs as the coupes. Both are available with halogens too. You really need the OEM lights as I've seen such terrible light patterns from kit upgrades on cars that weren't meant to have HIDs. I haven't seen one of these kits in an R34, but from what i've seen in Cefiros, Skylines and Supras, they look terrible and only give glare to oncoming traffic rather than decent lighting. I've got a pic somewhere on my computer of the light pattern from a kit. If I can find it I'll post it.

but from what i've seen in Cefiros, Skylines and Supras, they look terrible and only give glare to oncoming traffic rather than decent lighting. I've got a pic somewhere on my computer of the light pattern from a kit. If I can find it I'll post it.

You should check mine out - they're crisp, non glaring and have a perfect cut off. There's some pics in the thread in my sig of both my car and my flatmate's 32.

If the r34 have projector lights like the r32/a31 then I would highly recommend the HID kits I'm organising a group buy for.

If they're "normal" looking lights (after the conversion back to halogen) then I would suspect they do glare and not cut off properly so I would suggest you find the OEM HID assembly and use that.

Good luck :P

Ricnismo ,

The balasts are underneath the light but they should have been removed , usualy cut off , sometimes just unpluged and removed . They should have inscribed on the top black plastic "H1 12V 55W " , thats to indicate the type of globes they have in there .

All gtrs and gtts come with xenons as standard , some none turbos and some sedans come with halogens .

Gtr xenons are reflectors not projectors , series III r33 gtrs have projectors but the 34 xenons are brighter .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...