JUN Oil Pump upgrade on R33 GTR

[boostn32]

dose any one know if you can fit a RB26 pump to a RB20 are there any gains to be made here as in flow and pressure is a N1 pump better can u buy a N1 pump from nissan, what are these worth.

[Blitz]

Gav, im using the Tomei gasket kit with the upper oil gallery restrictor

[pnblight]

Ha blitz the tomei head gasket resistor is that come in the std tomei head gasket kit as i'm also looking at upgrading internals and pump etc and want to address the oil supply issue to the head at the same time cheers

[Blitz]

Pete,

Yes the upper oil gallery restrictor comes in the complete kit as I understand it. If you need one I have a spare at home

[Sydneykid]

We block off one (of the 2) oil supplies to the cylinder head, we increase the ID of the oil returns to the sump (they are too small) and we run an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump.

As for oil pumps we use the standard RB26DETT oil pump, or dry sump for a far superior result for similar cost. The aftermarket pumps are rediculously priced for what they are.

[pnblight]

SK would you be able to maybe do a small drawing or pics of the changes you do as i'm very interested in the mods. (i'm like woundering where you take the oil from the back of the head and plumb back to etc)

pete

do you use the N1 or just the std pump?

and is it posible to just buy the higher pressure release spring for the std pump?(as i have asked nissan and they don't less any parts for the pumps)

pete

[R32-GTS]

For a street driven car im thinking the upgraded pump is a better option then dry sump as far as legality issues are concerned. Only my opinion. On another note i had a oil restrictor threaded and tapped into the block .

[BU5TER]

We block off one (of the 2) oil supplies to the cylinder head, we increase the ID of the oil returns to the sump (they are too small) and we run an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump.

As for oil pumps we use the standard RB26DETT oil pump, or dry sump for a far superior result for similar cost.  The aftermarket pumps are rediculously priced for what they are.

I'm pretty sure I've said this before, there is no hope in hell that you could do a dry sump set up with new fittings, braided hoses, external oil pump with custom pulley and drive and modifications done to the head and block for custom pick ups/returns and the can to hold the oil for $1200

please tell me I'm wrong and I'll book it in to be done tomorrow

[DoughBoy]

Just the lines and fittings cost me over that amount, new from a wholesaler in the US. Nevermind the pump, can, crank drive, belts and gears.

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

In parts I ordered all the stuff to do a dry sump in a mates torana, with all the parts supplied from an american wholesaler at a really unbelievable price the parts still cost me $1029 USD!!!

The earlier pic of the fitting welded to the outside is done as it is a pic of the AVO rb30 GTR, in a rb30'd gtr you need to run an external oil pump pickup, as the factory pickup on the rb30 block sits directly above the axel tube in the rb26 4wd sump thus you cant fit it!!! An external oil pick up has no perfomance advantage!!!

[proengines]

Dry sump is a great option if you can do the work yourself. for my RB30 I picked up the pump used but in great condition for $152.50 from Ebay and the tank arrived today for less than $100, it is missing the bottom part which I didnt realise but it's not much to fabricate. I might just buy another, they go for around US$200 used from Nascar teams including a tank heater and usually some lines. Lines etc.. come to around $300 because the tank is being mounted in the tray of the ute. It's a bit of work to mount the pump and set up the drive belt etc so if you are paying by the hour it might add up to a bit to do. I'd say it will take a good Saturdays work and it will be all mounted up.

I fitted a collar to a RB30 crank a couple of weeks ago and it's not a small job, you need to machine the fromt of the crank down, then shrink fit the collar and drill and tap for the screws supplied. It's about 2 hours labour and theres no way you could do it in the car. It comes to $500 or so to supply and fit the collar, then add the price of a Jun or HKS etc pump and you wont have much change out of$4000 including the labour to fit it. On a 33 you dont need to fit the drive collar so you can do it in the car but it still adds up.

The dry sump setup will always make more power on the same engine because it reduces windage. The parasitic losses due to windage are pretty big. It also stops the oil pump sucking in aerated oil which doesnt lubricate anything all that well. The scavenge side of the dry sump pump can pick up oil straight from the back of the head so that oil doesn't have to run back past the crank to get to the sump. Most newer dry sump pumps also have a vaccum pump as the last stage which is great for reducing crankcase pressure.

If it was my engine and I was paying for someone to do it and was on a budget, I would go for the 26 pump, stiffen up the relief spring and clean up the sharp edges in the oil feeds. I'd also knock some restrictors into the oil feeds to the head, we make them with a .75mm feed hole and tap the original down and our one in on top of it. The amount of oil that doesn't feed to the head after that would most likely make up most of the difference that a larger pump would make without the restrictors. You are better off making good use of the flow of the pump that's already there by sending the oil to the right places that by just pumping more oil to make up for a simple design flaw. Oil pumps use a fair bit of power to drive and the less power it takes to drive the pump, the more power at the flywheel. I'd also look at sump baffling, you can have the best oil pump money can buy but if the pickup isn't sitting in the oil it's not going to do any good.

[GTRgeoff]

Dammit Greg, that's a great post.

[Blitz]

Fantastic info

[skylinekid]

so u guys still think the tomei pump is the best overall in strength and oil supply

[ff_driftz]

I fitted a collar to a RB30 crank a couple of weeks ago and it's not a small job, you need to machine the fromt of the crank down, then shrink fit the collar and drill and tap for the screws supplied. It's about 2 hours labour and theres no way you could do it in the car. It comes to $500 or so to supply and fit the collar, then add the price of a Jun or HKS etc pump and you wont have much change out of$4000 including the labour to fit it. On a 33 you dont need to fit the drive collar so you can do it in the car but it still adds up.

I have a early r32 rb26 in my 180sx and would like to upgrade my oil pump, most probably an N1 oil pup, how do you fit the collar is it just puched on? do i have to machine anything? do i have to remove the crank?

thanx for help guys

[KiwiRS4T]

I have a early r32 rb26 in my 180sx and would like to upgrade my oil pump, most probably an N1 oil pup, how do you fit the collar is it just puched on? do i have to machine anything? do i have to remove the crank?

thanx for help guys

Spend 5 minutes reading the thread - all the answers are there.