PowerFC: Some DIY tuning comments please

[justin911]

I've also changed the first 8x8 inj map cells down 8 presses on the pfc..

didnt seem to affect the drive, but the fuel went up slightly (mighta just been one of those things though) but yeah obviously its stupid playing with the inj... :|

[The Mafia]

keen if anyone can answer my q's a couple of posts back

[paulr33]

hey mafia (btw whats your real name?)

ill have a shot at answer based on what ive seen

well, I've been driving around all day winding ignition timing into the bastard.

Got constant knock of about 8% now out of boost, and f**k me, I've wound almost 14 degrees advance into the first 6 x 20 of the table!!

The knock is still always below 20, so this is ok, right?

I too was also doing this same type of tune / test scenario and found great results like yourself.

Up the timing more and more and it feels awesome to drive, like a whole new car hey

I am not sure just how far you can go exactly as my powerfc died as you know, but I was keen on going higher.

Gary (sydneykid) basically said you should in theory be able to keep advancing more and more aslong as there isnt lots of knock.

Can I just keep advancing the timing until the knock gets to around a constant 10% or 15%?

Is there a point where it won't knock but the timing advance is bad?

Im not sure what the upper limit is on how far you can advance it, if its consistently knocking just a bit under 20 then maybe keep it at that and stick with that. It will be a little harder to tune the other medium load ignition areas as you need to load simulate or find lots of hills.

But get this, out of boost, the car is so responsive now! I just wants to haul its ass to boost A LOT quicker than it used to. It actually feels awesome to drive out of boost now, so I am not as tempted to hit boost as much anymore.. Oh, and the turbo spools much quicker now. Like 500 rpm earlier...............  Does this sound right?

I too found the same results, its so bloody nice to drive hey. It just fulls consistently and strongly.

Paul man, you gotta get another Powerfc.. But don't get a standard one - get the Pro version. I am sure you'll love the launch control and the ignitio cut limiter. I reckon its worth the $250 extra. I just wish it had one more thing - Knock control (ie, the link pulls back boost if it detects a certain level of knock or higher)

Oh I will be getting another powerfc or getting this one fixed. First priority is to get car started and running. Then asses how damaged the powerfc is, I updated the pics @ http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/pics/dead-pfc/page_01.htm but yeah nothing so far. Car still doesn't start, more debugging/diag to follow

I am about 75% sure I will be passing on this powerfc and getting a Pro version.

I have considered the pro version but honestly wouldn't see the need for rev launch and ign cut instead of fuel cut.

Everyone says "no, go the link or haltek" but I think the powerfc and a datalogit would be just as good, and even better because it comes with the trusty old hand controller. Constant knock monitoring by graph, and you can give it a quick adjustment if you need too.

All of those other ecus as far as I know need a laptop to do anything? Although I do know the link has its own hand controller... But I have seen it.. Its crap.

I don't see a reason why you would want to change. You've seen great tuning results from the powerfc, you are free to modify it yourself and the powerfc has most of the hard work done for you, you just need to fine tune some of the ign stuff. The cold start crap, airflow tables are already done. For an RB the powerfc has been listed as the most popular by many many people, yet to see another ecu thats as popular. The link uses a map sensor so youll loose some nice tuning features from that as gary explained with a map sensor when your on your target boost level the manifold pressure is the same from there onto redline so its basically you tune it off a flatline'd load map which again you would loose some accuracy. No need to goto map sensor so why bother. Check if the link does closed loop mode, sequential ignition, knock sensor support and some of the key features the powerfc has.

The powerfc doesn't do timing / fuel alterations when it picks up lots of knock (or too much) as its a stand alone management system. Its designed to be tuned and used correctly and if so there is no need for simple and stupid (stuff is bad, back off everything mode). It was quoted (the stock ecu knock protection) as the most simplistic methods of fixing a problem.

When stuff is bad, back off everything. No point having that in complete stand alone as you have full control over it.

The stock ecu has completely different goals and boundaries in mind so yeah its simplistic mode isnt the most useful.

I'm a bit out my league here so perhaps someone else can fill in the stuff ive missed or got wrong.

Having blown up my powerfc has kinda put a dent in my "tecnical" status, i now look like a stupid restard, whereas before i was just a retard so anyway. I tried to answer some of them.

Has your tuner said anything about how much timing is "too much"?

[The Mafia]

you sir, are a champion. I've pm'd my details to you.

SAU is f**king lucky to have members like yourself, and Sydneykid.

SK if you have any other additions, be my guest.

[davey_b2001]

hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone knows where i can grab a copy of the power fc programing software so i can install it on my laptop and have a play.

Dave.

[paulr33]

you need the cable to do so but i can help

you have pm

[bmxwrx]

Links are shithouse, there is a reason people can't sell em second hand, they are a slow ecu.

You guys need to buy a knocklink.

I have one and use it to find out what load point is pinging when i'm doing a map trace. (Just foot flat to the floor and when the lights light up on the knocklink i back off and see what the last load point was i went through. Adjust from there)

Can't wait till this Data-logit group buy happens so i can tune the AFR dead flat. There only so much you can do power wise without altering the AFR.

[icydude]

This wasnt covered in the faq but im having alot of grief from it.

When i floor it down the highway right around 6300 onwards the car feels like its being held back and i get a solid red light on the right of the instrument panel.

this happens at 14psi as well as 24 psi on my r32 gtr.

The other night I jumped the boost to 24 psi and gave it a go in second and right near the top end it went like its supposed to and shot me back in my seat.

As i am in Canada we dont really have any place to get our pfc's tuned professionaly so i was hopign someone could give some advice.

[bmxwrx]

Thats probably the inbuilt knock warning dude, you need to either get the afr tuned correctly or get the ignition sorted out as you are running too much advance.

[icydude]

no, the knock warning light is different, it flashes 3 times.

This is a differnet light. It comes on solid.

Before tuning i was having the knock problem.

[The Mafia]

is there anything in that manual under the warning indicator section? There is a spot that describes all the warning codes on the dash.

[bmxwrx]

could be your injectors are maxing out too. i think thats the solid light.

[The Mafia]

I had a word to my mechanic \ tuner today (this guy is really good), Asked him about the whole advance ignition things. He said that some of the LS1's that he works on get up to 25 degrees advance in some areas, due to no detonation.

He said that simply looking at the knock graph is ok, but was hesitant and said that to be extremely careful, it would be good to throw on the head phones and listen for detonation.

He also mentioned that he doesn't know how sensitive the knock graph is on the power fc so wasn't too sure if even 5% - 25% knock is bad or good.

So yeah, it all depends on just how sensitive the knock graph is on the power FC.

[Col-GTSX]

You have a good point there... How sensitive is the knock graph....

But i think i can answer it....

Most tuners will agree a knock level of 20 is acceptiable anything more should be looked at....

My fc is so out of tune that i dont even get knock at all..... 0 knock....

This is because it uses 22 litres per 100km's.... HAHAHA

Base maps rock.... LOL

[Robo's]

You have a good point there... How sensitive is the knock graph....

But i think i can answer it....

Most tuners will agree a knock level of 20 is acceptiable anything more should be looked at....

My fc is so out of tune that i dont even get knock at all..... 0 knock....

This is because it uses 22 litres per 100km's.... HAHAHA

Base maps rock.... LOL

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Funny about this knock, ive seen knock readings upto 90 but never heard any ping. When my motor was half stock, (just boost and no FMIC) i was hearing alot of ping down the strip but unfortunately i didnt have the Power FC to get a number.

[The Mafia]

you can't always hear pinging

[paulr33]

ive updated the powerfc faq to warn of the air temp sensor hoohaa

[siksII]

ive updated the powerfc faq to warn of the air temp sensor hoohaa

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Good to hear you got yours fixed, how bad was the damage, did it cost a lot to repair? And what was exactly wrong?

[paulr33]

yeah im pretty happy its been fixed too

the damage done was one burnt track on the powerfc board which was the ignition signal pin. the track was burnt and the track was completely cut. i had a friend at work resolder the join and it worked fine. didnt cost me anything to repair. the damage on the car was the water temp sensor got fried. $50 for a 2nd hand one of shaunr32 on the forums

[icydude]

could be your injectors are maxing out too. i think thats the solid light.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I never thought about looking at that when it was happening.

The 5 degree intake temps are making for to much air flow.

Time for new injectors i guess.

Edited October 26, 2005 by icydude